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Pet Forum
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| -organized by Marilynn Jack mjack@wave.home.com |
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Pet Forum
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| -organized by Marilynn Jack mjack@wave.home.com |
RV Times #85 - Safeguarding your Pet while TravellingAlthough our two miniature schnauzers, Tiffy and Sassy, are tattooed, we decided to discuss microchipping with our vet, Dr. Pawel Cichon of Sunwood Veterinary Hospital in Coquitlam BC. He gave us some literature that convinced us that the microchips would give us triple protection (license, tattoo, and microchip) not only while travelling, but at home.
Our girls wear collars at all times when we leave home. The collars have identification tags: a small "barrel" with contact information inside, city license tags, and rabies tags with our vet’s phone number on them. We have microchip tags as well.
The microchip is a tiny transponder about the size of a grain of rice and is inserted with a large needle into the back of the dog’s neck. Neither of our dogs even flinched when the microchip was being inserted. At one time, a drawback of the microchip was that they could "travel." One owner said that the microchip had travelled right into the leg of her dog. Now, depending on the manufacturer, each microchip has either tiny "barbs" to prevent it from moving, or a smooth surface that, once in contact with body fluid and skin tissue, helps to keep it stationary. When our girls have their yearly well-pet checkup, we have our vet scan to make sure the microchip is still in place.
Depending on the supply of microchips at the vet’s office, you may have to wait several weeks to have the implant done. The process itself is quick, the chip can’t get lost, the number is unique, the dog doesn’t have to be shaved to see if it’s there, and the owner’s name and address is available in a national database (in Canada) so a dog can be returned quickly and safely. Both the US distributors of microchips maintain a database.
The tiny transponder can be read through the dog’s skin by a scanner emitting low-frequency radio waves. A tiny antenna in the transponder picks up the frequency; the number is retrieved, and displayed in the readout window.
Tattoos fade, and collars can be lost. But even microchips are of little value unless they are registered. It is important to note that if you move, or change telephone numbers, you MUST notify your registry. Both microchips and tattoos are great ways to prove your dog’s identity, but if you’ve failed to register, or keep your registration current, there is almost no possible chance your dog will be returned to you if it is lost.
An article in Technocopia (www.technocopia.com/pet-19991210-microchip.html) states that "six out of ten dogs and eight out of ten cats that enter an animal control shelter will not go home." They also state that they believe that only one out of every three dogs is licensed.
As show dogs do not usually wear a collar at dog shows, microchips could be of great benefit in the off chance that one managed to escape or is stolen. At a dog show in Washington State, a schnauzer belonging to a friend somehow got out of her enclosure in the middle of the night. Luckily she didn’t go too far and was returned in the morning, so it does happen.
I wrote to the manufacturers of three of the chips and solicited information from several of the owner's lists to which I belong. Of the more than twenty or so messages I received from list members, there were no negative comments about microchipping.
Australia has a national microchip program, and the California Senate has introduced Bill 236, requiring all dogs and cats over four months of age to be microchipped. An article at: www.PEThealthcare.co.uk/dogs/welldogclinic/pups_microchipping.asp advises that all veterinary surgeries, dog pounds and animal rescue facilities have electronic scanners in the UK, so the argument that microchips are just a fad isn’t valid.
Dr. Cichon advised us that all animals that visit his clinic for the first time are scanned for a microchip, and if a microchip is found, he can assure himself that the animal has not been stolen.
Microchips will last as long as 25 years, and can be implanted in an animal as young as five or six weeks.
Our dogs have chips from PetNet, which is Canadian. The two other main brands, used in the US, are HomeAgain, manufactured by Destrone, and Avid. InfoNet is a small player in the microchip business.
All manufacturers require complete information on the animal (species, colour, sex, birth date, spay/neuter info, last rabies vaccination) as well as information on the owner and an emergency contact. Each microchip has an identification number and is maintained in a central registry, as well as at the vet’s office.
All brands of microchips on the market are reliable, but each has unique features. You may want to visit this website to see some comparisons: www.erinet.com/ghost/microchipping.htm.
Some articles I read during my research stated that some scanners couldn't read some microchips. As an example, New Jersey German Shepherd Rescue Inc. states on their website that, "Avid scanners can read both Avid and Home Again microchips, while Home Again scanners can only read Home Again Chips." Avid has two different microchips, both costing the same, and only a universal scanner can read the Euro Chip.
Visit both the Home Again website, and the Avid website to determine which is the best chip for you:
www.avidmicrochip.com/products.htm
In 1996, Schering-Plough, the marketers of the HomeAgain chip, announced distribution of a universal scanner that can read all microchips. It was developed as a joint project with the makers of the Avid chip.
The American Kennel Club has a Companion Animal Recovery (CAR) program, founded in 1995, to help reunite lost pets with their owners. They provide lifetime recovery services for microchipped and tattooed pets. They maintain a worldwide database and provide recovery services 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. The one-time cost is $12.50, with a $6 re-registration fee being charged if the animal is sold. There is no charge to change address, telephone, or other contact information. As of June 30, 2001, 963,418 companion animals have been enrolled in the database, and 54,306 lost pets have been reunited with the owners in the US and abroad. As we travel extensively in the US, we felt it would be a wise investment to register our girls with CAR.
Further information about this program can be obtained from their website: www.akc.org/love/car/. For those of you who have already microchipped your dogs and wish to register with the AKC Companion Animal Recovery, you can register by phone or online. Their address is: 5580 Centerview Drive, Suite 250, Raleigh NC 27606-3389.
Clinics can be set up for microchipping and the AKC CAR program offers a special rate for registration of the microchip information — currently $9 per animal, discounted from the $12.50 regular rate.
The AKC CAR program has also formed an alliance with the HomeAgain manufacturers, and 20,000 scanners have been placed with animal shelters and veterinarians worldwide. They assured me that this universal scanner could read the Canadian PetNet chips.
A vet from Zacatecas City in Mexico e-mailed me to say that he’s an inspector for the Mexican Kennel Club. He microchips a lot of dogs each month and has never had a problem. It’s nice to know that if your dog was lost in Mexico, they also have facilities (in the large cities at least), to scan for a microchip.
For those who are involved in Animal Rescue, you may want to explore the Avid site, as they sell bulk microchips. Avid states, "Those familiar with the delivery systems for vaccines and regular shots will have no problem injecting the chip. Complete step-by-step instructions are included with all products." Avid chips are registered upon purchase to the buyer and as long as you don’t transfer the registration, the chip will always be traceable back to you.
Do your own research to see what is best for you. All the chips are reliable, but each has its own unique features. If you decide microchipping is not for you, please make certain you have some method in place to have your pet returned to you if you become separated while travelling or at home.
Marilynn Jack is the owner of two pet miniature schnauzers, Tiffy, 7, and Sassy, 5. She and her husband, Ian, live in Port Coquitlam BC. Marilynn is a member of the Miniature Schnauzer Club of Canada and the Canadian Kennel Club, and is a past president of the B.C. Miniature Schnauzer Club. She is a moderator of NaturalSchnauzers@SmartGroups.com.
I’m not sure which camper gets the most flack from other campers – those who don’t scoop, or those who let their dogs bark incessantly. Training your dog not to bark must begin at home.
I am not personally familiar with all training aids to control barking, and am therefore reluctant to recommend a particular one. We used a squirt bottle on our two and that was sufficient. Every once in a while, though, they still need a reminder.
I solicited advice from an internet dog list and a knowledgeable breeder, Peggie Blakley of B-Majer Miniature Schnauzers (a member of Southern California Miniature Schnauzer Rescue/Adoptions) sent the following good advice:
Some dogs just like to make noise. As there are non-stop chatterers in people, so are there barkers in dogs. It takes nothing to stir these dogs up. They just like to bark for the sheer joy of doing it. A collar may not teach them a thing.
Be consistent - Try to stop unnecessary barking. While you may love your dog, your neighbours might not like the noise at all, and it seems to them that you aren't trying at all to stop the aggravation. These days, when much of our population lives very close to their neighbours, we must take their feelings into consideration or we are likely to lose our dog-owning privileges.
Controlling the environment - Try to find out what the dog is barking at. Can he see the front yard or front door from where he stays? He will probably bark at people walking by or coming to your home as his guardian tendencies and property senses will come to light. Seats in the window so the dog can watch the front yard can stir up giant barking tendencies. If your dog is a problem barker, remove such barking inducements.
Water hose - This is what we have to use in the kennel. A bark collar would cause some barkers non-stop shocks. Our dogs learned long ago that if they weren't quiet when I issued the command, they would get a quick blast of water consistently until they were quiet. They are now believers, and I can just issue the command, "Quiet," and they are, along with many of the boarders who copy the behaviour of the regulars. Banging a metal pie tin is also a reminder that the water will follow if they don't quiet down. If these things don't work, the offenders are reminded with the water, and peace reigns.
De-barking - A surgical procedure to snip the vocal folds, thereby reducing or eliminating the bark. There are several ways to do this procedure, which if done correctly causes minimal discomfort to the dog or to your pocketbook. It behoves you to find a vet who does the procedure correctly and simply. The vet simply goes down the throat with a special instrument, and snips out the vocal folds (dogs do not have vocal cords, they have vocal folds). No sutures. No skin involved. The dogs are under a minimum anaesthetic, observed for a few hours, and then sent home. Costs for this range from $50 to $100. Other vets open up the throat and remove the entire voice box in a terribly serious and complicated surgery, and charge from $300 - $600. I guess what I am trying to say is that if you have the right vet do this; there is a minimum problem to the dog, to you, or to your wallet. It can be a cruel painful surgery, or one that is less serious that having a child's tonsils out Does the dog miss its bark? No way. They just continue barking on and on. They may not make any noise, or they may end up with a little tinkle bark, either of which is acceptable over a high-pitched shriek or non-stop loud barking.
Bark Control Collar - These collars have helped many dogs, but you must recognize that they have shortcomings as well. They are designed to give the dog an electric shock each time the dog barks. This constancy in correcting is helpful in some circumstances. If you have one dog, it can work well. But if you have other dogs, or your close neighbours do, be advised that the collar shocks your dog every time the other dogs bark as well. And the shock is not as mild as you might believe. I handled one recently that gave me a terrible shock.
Teresa L. from Kelso, Washington, sent me the following:
I've used with great success the PetSafe Bark control collar on Seiko the German shepherd. He used to love to bark and the collar has helped stop the habit. The insert that came with it has this description:
"There are two key features of the Bark Control Collar. The first feature is a "warning sensation" (half the normal correction level) that is triggered by your dog's first bark. If the dog continues to bark, the second feature is triggered. That is, the correction level will steadily increase after each additional bark, up to six levels. As a built-in safety feature, if your dog barks 15 or more times in a 50 second period, the collar will automatically shut off for a period of three minutes."
The collar worked extremely well in teaching Seiko quickly that he would be smart not to bark.
Other comments on the bark collar:
- don’t use them on a dog that has a really high-pitched voice.
- they cannot be worn continually. The probes will case rub spots/sores.
Debbie W. swears by a "Super Barker Breaker." It emits a high-pitched sound (much like a smoke detector). After using it for several days, she now leaves it off the dog, but picks it up and just has to barely touch the button and the dog immediately stops barking.
Another subscriber swears by a Citronella Collar. Each bark activates a small collar-mounted unit, releasing a tiny spray of citronella. The dog is distracted by the smell and soon stops.
Bark Control without Collars - A Bark Free can be wall-mounted inside or out. Correction tone sounds each time the dog barks. You can control how loud the bark must be to trigger the tone.
The UKS System is an Ultrasonic correction for multiple dogs.
Socializing - Dogs need socializing. Many barking dogs just aren’t used to having other dogs around. If your dog is an "only-dog" and isn’t used to being around other animals, try and put him in an environment where there are many other dogs. This helps him put things in perspective, and makes him realize that he must get along. It doesn’t take long for him to realize that whether he likes it or not, other dogs exist, and he has to deal with it, as every other dog your own encounters will be determined to be dominant. As he becomes more socialized, he’ll become less stressed and more tolerant of other dogs and be much quieter.
There are many training devices available. If possible, borrow one before you buy, as one type may be more effective than another for your dog.
If you’ve trained your dogs well at home, there shouldn’t be a problem with behaviour while "on the road."
The owner of miniature schnauzers offers advice.
- by Marilynn Jack
Last year was difficult for Ian and me health-wise, and we were unable to travel. This year we managed to leave beautiful BC on January 1st 2001, with our two pets, for a much-needed two-month trip to the sunny south.
We travelled slowly down I-5, stopping often and early, and then made a side trip to San Jose, California to visit on-line friends who also have miniature schnauzers. Seven human persons and 12 fur persons met for an evening of discussion on nutrition, health, and training (for the dogs, not us!). The RV Park we stayed in, just south of San Jose, (Maple Leaf RV Park in Morgan Hill) was fabulous offering Cable TV, heated pool, telephone hookups at every site for $1 a night, plus two cents a minute for local calls and 20 cents for long distance. I caught up on all my email and racked up almost $4 in charges!
From there we went to Desert Hot Springs and took in the Palm Springs Dog Show. What a treat! Almost 4000 dogs were competing in conformation and obedience. We stayed in Desert Hot Springs for two weeks and had wonderful visits with a long-time on-line/telephone friend who raises miniature schnauzers that compete.
Although the RV Park we stayed at had 507 sites, there was only one pay phone, which was a fairly long walk from our site, and there was often a line-up to use it. They had a little table in the office with a modem hookup for those of us with laptops, but it was inconvenient. Although the weather wasn’t very warm, we did enjoy the nice heated pool and two hot tubs. The dog walking area here was wonderful, there were three dry-washes in the park and management tried to put those of us with pets in sites backing onto to one of them. No cable TV, but we did manage to get a few stations with our antennae.
The owner of a park in Winterhaven, California (just outside Yuma) contacted me last year, replying to my "Letter to the Editor" that was printed in The RV Times. He invited us to try his park, and we took him up on the offer. Unfortunately, the pool is open when the temperature is above 76° F. and the wind isn’t blowing. In the month we stayed there, the pool was only open four times, which gives you some idea of the weather this year!
A telephone hookup is too costly. Although this park advertises that it has telephone connections at each site, activation is unlike the Park in Morgan Hill and requires a visit from the telephone company. Even if I’d been willing to pay the hookup charge (very, very pricey), I’d have to pay a long distance charge each time I logged onto AOL. So, I visited a friend twice a week in Yuma to use her telephone for my email, and she offered to let me use their pool for a swim, which is beneficial for my physiotherapy program. No cable TV here, either, and only two stations that come in really well, although some people manage to get a third. This park does have a resident "pet," although most patrons of the park don’t appreciate the 5 a.m. wakeup call of the little rooster!
We’re able to take the dogs on a 2.4-mile walk every morning around the lettuce field (except when it rains, then its a quagmire, as is the designated dog walking area). After observing some inconsiderate dog owners who are letting their large dogs loose in the field, I want to tell everyone to please, please, wash your lettuce!!! Not once, not twice, but three times, and make sure ALL the outer leaves are stripped off. There are many places in this area where you can take your dogs off-leash for a run, so there is no excuse for letting them loose in a food-growing area. Any time we’ve stopped to watch harvesting, the workers have been extremely generous with samples so our group has had four types of lettuce (well washed, you can be assured!), broccoli, cauliflower, and celery. Some of the packaging is done right in the field, boxed, and is then on the way to be iced and shipped to your local food market. Our field was harvested for McDonald’s and did go through a cursory washing processing before packaging.
On our travels, I did get one sound piece of advice from two dog trainers. Our dogs tend to really pull (they’d make good sled dogs), when it’s been a while since they’ve had a walk. Both these people strongly suggested prong collars, rather than choke chains, (which can be damaging to the trachea) to teach dogs not to pull. They work like a charm! They look dangerous, but after trying one on our arm, we were convinced that they wouldn’t injure the dogs. After only one week both girls were walking nicely on a loose lead. But remember, they are training tools only and should be used as such.
And I should mention that I think the message is getting out to RVers about "scooping the poop." We’ve certainly noticed far less pet feces in our travels this year. Our sincere thanks to the many RV Parks that are providing and maintaining decent pet walking areas.
Marilynn Jack will provide pet information for The RV Times readers. Any questions, advice or tips can be e-mailed or sent to The RV Times, or contact Marilynn directly at mjack@home.com or emilymjack@aol.com.
- by Marilynn Jack
mjack@wave.home.com
Ian and I are off to the Grand Canyon next week (September) for a three week trip, with Sassy and Tiffy, of course.
We spent three weeks on the island fishing this year, trying out our new boat. Our girls got some strange looks and plenty of giggles when they were led down the dock into the boat in their hot pink life jackets, with the little handles on the top. Thankfully, they didn't fall overboard so we didn't need the handles!
We camped at Alder Bay Resort for the entire three weeks, our campground of choice near Port MacNeill. Obviously, though, there are lots of campers there that haven't read the rules for responsible pet ownership. Lots of lots of people are still not picking up after their dogs. The pile of dog poop in the middle of the dock was particularly offensive. Ken and Marge, who own Alder Bay, are aware of the problem and are doing what they can to alleviate it. It seems to me that it is just common sense to pick up, and shouldn't have to be part of the "official rules" of every campground.
I thought you might like a few holiday jokes for this last column of the year.
Ten Signs Your Dog Did Not Like Your Holiday Gift For Him
1. Leaves it carefully next to the pooperscooper in the back yard.
2. Prefers the box to the gift.
3. Slinks away with embarrassment at first mention of "walkies in the dogpark in that nice new red and green sweater".
4. Secretly calls vet and makes appointment to have you fixed.
5. You keep finding spouse playing with the gift you gave the dog.
6. You see Fluffy the cat wearing a collar that is five sizes too big.
7. You catch him placing Free to Good Home ads in local newspapers.
8. Lifts leg on Christmas tree after seeing what the neighbors gave their dog.
9. "Accidentally" hurls gift into the fireplace while playing fetch.
10. Asks you for the receipt
Holiday Etiquette For Dogs
1. Be especially patient with your humans during this time. They may appear to be more stressed-out than usual and they will appreciate long comforting dog leans.
2. They may come home with large bags of things they call gifts. Do not assume that all the gifts are yours.
3. Be tolerant if your humans put decorations on you. They seem to get some special kind of pleasure out of seeing how you look with fake antlers.
4. They may bring a large tree into the house and set it up in a prominent place and cover it with lights and decorations. Bizarre as this may seem to you, it is an important ritual for your humans, so there are some things you need to know:
5. Your humans may occasionally invite lots of strangers to visit during this season. These parties can be lots of fun, but they also call for some discretion on your part:
6. Likewise, your humans may take you visiting. Here your manners will also be important:
7. A big man with a white beard and a very loud laugh may emerge from your fireplace in the middle of the night. DON'T BITE HIM!!
Happy Holidays from Marilynn, Ian, Sassy and Tiffy!
- by Marilynn Jack
mjack@wave.home.com
Although summer is almost over, September can be very warm, and a few tips to prevent your pet from heatstroke is still timely. Pets have very few sweat glands - they only sweat between the toes and nose. Dog's pant to relieve some heat.
When to see a Vet:
Other tips to cool your pet:
Community Bulletin:
Canada Safeway Store #20 at Sunwood Square in Coquitlam is raising funds for their local S.P.C.A. through a raffle, hot dog sales and car washes throughout the summer and early fall. Safeway has donated several large prizes for the raffle including a gas barbecue, TV and a Deep Freeze. Local pet stores have also donated hampers. Support them and your local S.P.C.A.
As you've gathered, I'm a "dog person". For those of you who own cats, I've asked an RV Times subscriber, Darlene Parkes to submit a guest article. I hope all readers will feel free to submit their solutions, questions or ideas for future articles. - Marilynn Jack <mjack@wave.home.com>
by Darlene Parkes
As a responsible cat owner, one's obligations begin in the home. If you train your cat to be an indoor pet, they live a long and healthy life and are a joy to the family. A cat trained to live inside also will find it easier to be confined in an R.V.
The home must be kept free of poisonous plants (philodendron, dieffenbachia, Jerusalem cherry, yew to name several). A complete list can be obtained from your veterinarian. Electrical cords can be a hazard, especially to a kitten, as well as cleaning materials, wool, and spools of thread. Cover exposed cords with a strip of wide electrical tape.
A healthy diet is essential to your pet. A well balanced dry food helps maintain urinary tract health, but include moist food as well. Every cat is different, so you'll have to find a food they will enjoy. Always feed moist food the same time every day, and leave dry food out with fresh water.
Train your cat from an early age to wear a harness. That way you can take your pet for a walk outdoors at home as well as when you're camping. It is essential to have a cat kennel for your pet to travel in.
Cats are inclined to develop fur balls from licking, especially long haired ones. Keep a good tube of hairball remedy on hand as this helps to eliminate them.
A covered litter box with clumping litter (easy to clean out) should be placed in an area just for your pet and cleaned twice a day. When travelling, cats are often reluctant to relieve themselves at the end of a leash. The best thing to have is a crate big enough to put the litter box at one end. To help your cat feel at home, vets recommend not starting the trip with fresh litter. Taking litter that she's already used is like putting out a little sign that says "mine".
The most essential care you can give your cat is yearly shots and a checkup at your Veterinarian.
Choose a cat that is right for your family. Never get a kitten under 12 weeks of age, and make sure the first shots have been given before getting one. Having your pet spayed or neutered is a wise idea, and "a must" if you're going to take your pet camping.
Above all, if you give your cat lots of love, care, and kindness, you will have a faithful loving pet for a lot of years. From kittens to adults, they are a joy to have. I know, as I have four, plus a Cocker Spaniel and they all get along great are we're all very happy!
by Tania Kidd
I have some suggestions for choosing a good kennel which come from my personal experience living and working at a friend’s family-run boarding kennel for the last two years.
It is shocking to me how many people drop off their pets without ever asking to SEE the quarters in which their pets will stay. Few people actually “tour” the premises of the kennel here before making their boarding reservations.
So my first suggestion is that if you, a relative, or a friend plan to board a dog or cat for a day or a month, VISIT THE KENNEL FIRST. This means go to the kennel and ask to tour the entire property - but especially the quarters where your pet will be kept for the duration of your absence. BE SURE the ENTIRE PROPERTY IS FENCED. Dogs do escape their runs accidentally sometimes.
Ideally, you would even visit the kennel more than once before the date of pet drop-off. You should try to visit at different hours of the day - soon after opening, for example, and on the next visit - later in the afternoon, to compare the kennel conditions. Often, a kennel looks very good after it is cleaned in the early morning, but if supervision doesn’t continue through the day, by closing time it can be NASTY, and chances are it will stay that way until the next morning cleaning period. (This means the pets sleep in whatever wastes have accumulated during the day — perhaps on wet or dirty bedding).
There are specific things to look for during your visit:
Are the runs (yes runs, NOT CAGES) clean? Are they spacious and airy? Is there ample light? Are they ventilated appropriately? Is there heating/cooling appropriate for the season and the region? Can the runs be seen and accessed easily from the main office?
Has clean water been provided in containers that are of appropriate size for specific dogs/cats? Are the water containers full? Has any uneaten food been removed? Are waste materials promptly cleaned up?
How does the kennel SMELL? A kennel that is appropriately cleaned and disinfected should not smell terribly bad. You may smell a little urine or faeces if a dog has recently “gone” - but in a good kennel this will soon be removed and not left to attract flies all day. In a kennel that is not regularly disinfected, the urine odour will be VERY strong. Beware this situation.
What kind of bedding is used? (In other words, is the bedding something your dog might possibly chew up in stress?) Can you bring your own?
Do the dogs receive “play time” or “exercise time”?
What kind of food is provided? How/when are the animals fed? Can you bring your own food?
What kind of supervision is given the kennel after hours and on weekends? (Our kennel has 24-hour supervision with two adults living on the property.)What is the procedure for emergency care of the boarded animal? Who is the kennel’s vet? Is he/she local? Will the kennel use your own vet if you leave appropriate information?
Also remember that boarding at a vet’s “may” mean small cages with little exercise during the duration of your trip. Don’t hesitate to ask to view the boarding quarters at your vet’s if that is where you intend to leave your dog/cat. Personally, I have not been too very impressed with the kenneling situation for healthy dogs/cats at the vets I’ve visited, though I’m sure there must be some that are better than others.
A recommendation: Pets seem to fare better if they DO have their own bedding or an old shirt or towel with the “family smell” on it. Also, include a couple of toys. If your dog has a sensitive stomach, take your own food. It probably won’t lessen your bill, but it will prevent adding a veterinary bill to the total! Some dogs get VERY stressed out when boarded, and this often results in diarrhea and possibly vomiting. A change of food on top of that, and wow! Sick puppy.
One last thought: If the boarding establishment does not require you to provide current vaccination records before accepting your pet for boarding - forget that place. Who knows what lurks inside? A reputable establishment will verify that each of its boarders is up-to-date on vaccinations so that transfer of illnesses from one boarder to another is limited.
NOTICE BOARD:
The B.C. Miniature Schnauzer Club is holding its annual “Schnauzer Day” at the Fido Park (just off the freeway at 176th) on Sunday, July 11th. All proceeds go to funding canine genetic research. For more information, call (area codes 604), 942-5889, 460-0283, 576-9884, 530-3403, or 531-6681 or Email mjack@wave.home.com. More details will be posted at your local Veterinary clinic or Pet Groomer.
Re Shirley Evans letter (page 17, March/April RVT).
We have taken two cats to Arizona for the last 12 years and thought we had tried all the ways of substituting grass in the winter months, until a Snowbird neighbour gave us a wonderful idea.
Her Vet advised taking a can of PUMPKIN and cutting out squares of Saran-Wrap - put a tablespoon of pumpkin on each square, screw the top of the wrap and freeze on a cookie sheet. Then bag the tiny bundles and keep in the freezer.
We defrost a bundle once or twice a week, and mix it with the dry cat food. Do not leave the pumpkin in the can.
It has worked extremely well for our younger cats, and my neighbour’s 14 yr. old was in excellent condition.
Even though there is lots of grass at home, I still defrost a pumpkin bundle once a week!
Marilynn Jack
Although Tiffy and Sassy are tattooed, we decided to discuss microchipping with our vet. He gave us some literature which convinced us that the microchips would give us double protection not only while travelling, but at home.
To get further input, I posted a message to the Hoflin board. For those of you who are on the Internet, you may be interested to know that Hoflin (www.hoflin.com) has a moderated discussion board for most breeds. Members discuss health, behavioral and other pet issues, specific to their breed.
Of the twenty or so messages posted to the board, there were no negative comments about microchipping. One member mentioned that a microchip implanted some years ago had “traveled”, but technological advances have eradicated this problem.
Depending on the supply of microchips at the vet’s office, you may have to wait several weeks to have the implant done. Our vet had just received a supply, so we had no wait time at all.
Our dogs have chips from PetNet, which is a National Pet Registry. (There are other companies making chips, so your vet may use another brand.) They require complete information on the dog (species, color, sex, birth date, spay/neuter info, last rabies vaccination) as well as information on the owner and an emergency contact. Each microchip has an identification number and is maintained in a central registry, as well as at the vet’s office.
The process is quick, the chip can’t get lost, the number is unique, the dog doesn’t have to be shaved to see if it’s there, and the owner’s name and address is available on a national data base so a dog can be returned quickly and safely.
The microchip is about the size of a grain of rice and is inserted with a large needle into the back of the dog’s neck. Neither of our dogs even flinched when the microchip was being inserted. At one time, a drawback of the microchip is that they could “travel”. One owner said that the microchip had traveled right into the leg of her dog. Now each microchip has tiny “barbs” to prevent it from moving.
On the advice from a Hoflin member, we contacted the American Kennel Club to inquire about the AKC Companion Animal Recovery. This is a registry in the United States which is available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. The one-time lifetime enrollment fee of $12.50 per pet is used to fund scanners in pet shelters and breed rescue clubs. We decided to register Tiffy and Sassy as we travel in the United States.
A vet from Zacatecas City in Mexico emailed me to say that he’s an inspector for the Mexican Kennel Club and microchips a lot of dogs each month and has never had a problem. It’s nice to know that if your dog was lost in Mexico, they also have facilities, in the large cities at least, to scan for a microchip.
When our girls have their yearly shots, we’ll have our vet scan to make sure the microchip is in place.
For those of you who have already microchipped your dogs and wish to register with the AKC Companion Animal Recovery, their address is:
5580 Centerview Drive, Suite 250
Raleigh, NC 27606-3389
Or fill in a forma at their Web site <www.akc.org/carform.htm>
Shirley Evans wrote:
“1. I have a long haired cat that has a problem with hair balls. Do you have any remedy for that?
2. Because he is allergic to something he is constantly scratching. I have had him on Ovaban from the vet, but they are reluctant to give it to me as it is hard on the cat and will eventually kill him. He was on it steady from 1988 until last fall and he still runs up and down the hallway at night playing. He is very active and continues to scratch. It is also very expensive. In Nov. for some reason I gave him some canned milk (just enough to cover bottom of saucer). It seems to have helped a little.
3. Can you suggest a replacement of eating grass for a dog? I know they eat it for an upset tummy. Sometimes in winter it is hard to find especially if covered with snow.”
If anyone can help Shirley, please send your reply to me and I’ll let her know.
Many of the solutions we use ourselves for ordinary ailments and many over-the-counter drugs that we use can be used for pets. Check with your vet if you’re unsure about any of the following. This information has been gleaned from a variety of pet books.
We have a first-aid kit in our vehicle for our pets as well as ourselves. Make sure you have your vet’s telephone number and the number of an emergency vet pasted on the lid. We also carry a list of BC vets downloaded from the Internet.
“Emergency Care for Cats and Dogs” is a good book to carry.
Basic Supplies include:
For Car Sickness:
Dramamine, available in 50-milligram tablets that can be split into quarters. If your pet has glaucoma or a bladder problem, don’t administer it without a vet’s approval. Medium to large dogs should get about 25 to 50 milligrams and small dogs should get about 12.5 milligrams at least an hour before traveling.
For Vomiting:
No food for 24 hours. Once the worst of the vomiting is over, keep the water bowl full - don’t let him get dehydrated. If water makes him queasy, let him lick ice, one cube every 15 minutes. If he’s lethargic, disoriented, or stumbling around, get him to a vet. Kaopectate will help if your pet is still not feeling up to par - 1 teaspoon for each ten pounds of weight. Ask your vet for advice.
FOR DOGS ONLY: Pepto-Bismol will help soothe your dog’s tummy. One teaspoon for every 20 pounds of dog every four to six hours for up to two days. Use an oral syringe. Do not give to cats as it can make them sicker.
Diarrhea:
No food for 24 hours after onset of diarrhea. If it isn’t better after a day or so, call your vet. When your pet is ready to eat again, keep it bland. If your pet’s stools are still a little soft, try adding a little Metamucil to his food - 1-1/4 teaspoons to 1 tablespoon a day for one or two days. Just mix it with water and pour it on his food. It may sound strange to fight diarrhea with fiber, but sometimes it works very well. Keep his water bowl full. It’s also a good idea to give him a separate bowl of Gatorade, which, like other sports drinks, will help replenish minerals the body needs.
Constipation:
Give him a high fiber diet. Use a pet food that contains 7 to 13 percent fiber. A sprinkle of oat bran every day can help keep constipation away. Another good source of dietary fiber is Grape Nuts Flakes - one to three teaspoons several times a day until the constipation clears. Normally vets advise against giving much milk to their cats or dogs because it can cause diarrhea, but if you have a constipated pet, give a small pet 1/8 cup twice a day and a large dog about 1/2 cup. When your pet is regular again, stop the milk. Use Metamucil, 1/2 teaspoon twice a day for small pets and 2 teaspoons for large dogs.
Arthritis:
Buffered aspirin can be given to dogs for arthritis pain. Do not exceed one quarter of a 325 milligram tablet per ten pounds of dog twice a day. Always use buffered aspirin and give it only after mealtimes. Never give your cat aspirin without advice from your vet. It can be deadly. Never give dogs or cats other over-the-counter painkillers without first checking with your vet. Acetaminophen and ibuprofen are dangerous for your pets.
Itching:
Always check with your vet for precise dosages, although in an emergency Benadryl can be used for itching from mange, lice, allergies, and hives - 1 to 3 milligrams of medication for every pound of pet.
This is the time of year when Snowbirds are thinking about winter vacations in the sunny south. Many of us who head for warmer weather have one or more pets.
Many of the Letters to the Editor in RV magazines I’ve picked up recently, have a recurring theme – complaints about pets in both Provincial and State parks, as well as private campgrounds. If the small minority of irresponsible pet owners don’t clean up their act, the very vocal anti-pet lobby will force governments and private campgrounds to ban pets completely.
Although there seem to be many articles on traveling with pets, most of them are common-sense. Following are some things we do for our pets that I’ve never seen in an article. With Sheila’s permission, it would be great to have a “Pet Forum” in The RV Times to exchange ideas.
My husband, Ian, and I travel with two miniature Schnauzers, named Tiffy and Sassy. They’re both young and active so we’ve devised an exercise area for them that allows them some freedom. We have snaps on the side of our trailer that we use to attach vinyl sheeting. It extends the entire length of our trailer and has a “lip” that extends into the pen area so that our animals cannot get under the trailer. We then have two exercise pens joined together to make a “fence” around our trailer, under the awning. We have large non-skid mats that we purchased at a dog show covering the entire area. These mats “breathe” so they don’t kill the grass underneath. We had to purchase stand-alone steps to ensure there is no gaps in the system.
The first year we used this system, we didn’t realize that Sassy could jump the fence. Ian had taken her for her morning constitutional but she wasn’t too co-operative. He finally gave up and brought her back to the trailer. A few minutes later, she jumped the fence and trotted over to the dog walk area, which was quite away from our pad. Needless to say, we had to purchase a higher exercise pen!
When the dogs are in the exercise area, we keep a squirt bottle of water handy. Any barking or growling earns a quick squirt. The dogs hate it and it doesn’t take many squirts before they are quiet, no matter how many strange people, dogs, and smells come their way. They know when we’re traveling that barking is unacceptable. Try this at home as well, if your dog tends to bark often.
When we’re away from our trailer, we normally take our dogs with us, but occasionally that’s not possible. We always put our dogs in the trailer, and we know that they won’t bark, which is a frequent complaint from other campers. When the dogs were really young, we left them for short periods and asked our neighbors to let us know if they barked. We leave them lots of toys – stuffed animals, balls, ropes, and chews. We often leave the television set on, and if we have a video of a dog show handy, we put that on. Watching dogs on T.V. fascinates Sassy.
If your dog barks, there are many training aids available to break them of this habit – for the sake of your neighbors, please explore the different aids and purchase the one that works best for your dog.
Carry an “overnight” bag in each of your vehicles. Our bags have two leashes, a water bowl, a bottle of water, two small food bowls, a small bag of treats, a small bag of dog food, immunization certificates, a couple of toys, a spare collar, and an adequate supply of small plastic bags.
Although many parks are now providing dispensers with plastic bags to “scoop poop”, there’s still lots of people that ignore them and seem oblivious to the fact that their dog is depositing waste on paths and other areas of the dog runs. Maybe it’s my imagination, but the bigger the dog, the less inclined the owner is to “scoop”. For those who’ve never used a plastic bag – just put the bag over your hand, pick up the poop, turn the bag inside out and tie it, and then deposit it in a suitable waste container. A few years ago, people were silent when they observed pet owners ignoring the scooping rules, but I notice now that the responsible owners are become very vocal when they observe a violation.
We have one large crate for the dogs when we travel. It stays under the awning, and has a flat dog crate fan attached to keep the dogs cool on especially hot days. The dog crate does double duty as a dog house and safe haven. Visiting children are reminded that when the dogs are in the crate, their space is not to be invaded.
We carry an 18L bottle of water with a pump. If we’re unsure of the water supply, we use the bottled water and we carry extra dog food in case we’re not able to get our regular brand.
If everyone observes the rules, pets will be welcome everywhere.
While we were last in Los Angeles, a friendly lady (not a pet owner) came over and offered to watch our dogs for the day if we wanted to sightsee without them. What a great attitude, and what a great idea – pet owners trading pets to enable one another to take a tour or sightsee where pets just aren’t welcome.
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