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Help! Tips for the RVer |
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- by Bob Martin
bob@rvtimes.com
There seems to be a lot of discussion on how to level your RV. Let’s look at the best way, based on the reason for it to be level.
First and foremost we want to be comfortable inside our unit. If it is sitting at a slant, it is difficult to sit, sleep and eat. (After all if we wanted to be at a constant angle, we would have bought a sailboat instead, right?) The fridge must be level for proper operation. Older fridges had to be nearly dead level if you didn’t want them to burn out, but today’s fridges just require that the rig be level enough to be comfortable.
The reason a fridge has to be level is because of the chemical concoction in the coils that is used to transfer heat from the inside of the fridge to the air outside. These chemicals are heated by propane or electricity, which causes them to turn to a vapour and circulate through the tubing inside the fridge, absorb the heat and then circulate outside the rear of the unit and dissipate the heat. One of the so-called chemicals used is water, and when it and the other chemicals are heated to a vapour, they rise through the system of coils. However, if the fridge isn’t properly levelled, the vapours are hindered in their journey and water vapour condenses and sits in pockets in the coils. This prevents proper operation and creates rust in those spots on the inside of the coil. This can rust bad enough to create a pinhole, then the ammonia leaks out and the fridge quits working. An expensive fix is the only alternative left.
When it comes to levelling, we don’t want to use a pile of lumber or extend the hydraulic jacks as far as possible to accomplish the task, so try to find a setting that is fairly level to start with. Keep in mind that any time you have to raise a wheel to level your rig, you are putting an unnatural strain on the unit’s frame, and too much strain creates twist. (That is why sometimes the door is hard to open after you have levelled off.)
Determine which wheel has to be raised, and use a tapered ramp if possible instead of pieces of board stacked on top of each other. Make a ramp of the pieces if necessary, as this is better than driving over the sharp edges of each plank. If you have to use the rear duals for levelling, remember to put a ramp under both tires on a dual. Never block just one wheel. If you do, you have just put twice as much weight on one tire than what it is designed for; it will fail you at a later date.
The bug screen on the front of the engine grill is another contentious issue. Anything you put in front of the grill or radiator will hamper the proper flow of air to the radiator. To prove this statement, take an ordinary house fan that you would have for cooling or moving air in a room in your house. Now turn it on and feel the amount of airflow that you have. Now put the fan on the other side of your screen door and stand in front of the airflow. Notice the difference. On a vehicle, a screen can be enough to hamper the airflow to the extent that the engine does not cool properly.
On the other hand, there are times when it is really necessary to install a screen to prevent the radiator from getting a coating of insects on it. Keep in mind that the screen should be removed whenever it is unnecessary to have it on. A screen will not prevent bugs from getting splattered on the front of the coach. They still splatter right through the material. Any bugs that do get onto the radiator will get baked dry and are not hard to remove with a gentle spray from a hose or a light brushing with a stiff brush. In checking with transmission and radiator shops around the country, I did not find one that said they have ever replaced or repaired an engine or transmission because it had overheated from the radiator being plugged with bugs!
Always keep in mind that Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
Like many RVers, we use an external water filter that filters the water before entering the RV.
On one outing I was surprised to find three consecutive parks that had bad water. The water at each place tasted and smelled like rotten eggs. How could this be? The culprit was our water filter. When I opened the cartridge it contained algae and slime!
Here is my question: What is the proper care of such a filter? This is important for the weekend camper that lets their trailer sit for days at a time. When you pack up, should you drain the filter? It will still be wet inside the cartridge. Algae and slime can still build up. Should you remove the filter cartridge and dry it? This takes a long time. What if you plan to store your trailer over an extended time? Any suggestions?
Bob Hoogstins
Port Coquitlam
Bob,
When using a water filter there are a few things to keep in mind. If the filter is good enough to remove bacteria, what does it do with the bacteria when the filter is not being used? It will probably grow more bacteria until the growth overwhelms the filter medium and it finally comes through to the taps.
There are various ways to delay or prevent this problem from happening. If the system is not going to be used for a while, then remove the filter, clean the housing and wrap the filter in Saran Wrap after rinsing it in a solution of household bleach, which will kill the bacteria.
Then, when it is time to use it again, rinse well in clean water and install it in the housing. Some filters can be sterilized and dried in an oven at low temperatures, but I think it is better to replace the filter if you are not going to be using it for weeks at a time.
Also, keep in mind that cheap filters will cause more problems than they are worth. Good filters will do the job, kill bacteria to a certain extent and provide a more consistent quality of water at the taps.
Some filters require changing every few hundred gallons of water processed, others will go for thousands of gallons before requiring replacement. Some will allow a good flow rate and others will reduce the flow rate so low that the taps will hardly dribble the water out.
Research the available filter types, determine what kind you need and then maintain it as indicated and your problem should go away.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
This year we moved our Allegro motorhome to a new storage location outside Calgary. It is a beautiful spot and well maintained, but after only two months we found our RV full of mice.
As usual, your help and your readers’ are appreciated.
Ursula & Dieter Cosandier
UCosandier@shaw.ca
Ursula,
The best way to prevent mice from getting into your unit is to assure EVERY HOLE larger than a lead pencil is plugged, either with foam or steel wool. They can get in through the tiniest opening.
Look in the area where the gas pedal goes through the floor. If it is a cable, then the opening is big enough for a mouse to get in. If you have a motorhome with a double floor, they may be able to gain access to between the floors in one spot, and then into the coach part nearly anywhere the plumbing comes through the floor.
After you are positive that ALL access openings are plugged, get some inexpensive traps and bait them with cheese that is coated with peanut butter. (The peanut butter stops the cheese from drying out.) Spread these traps around inside the unit. Of course, you now have to check frequently and change any traps that have worked.
Spreading bagged mothballs around the inside also helps deter them, but unfortunately getting rid of the smell afterwards is nearly impossible.
The sonic mouse deterrents that you see advertised may work under some conditions, but they rely on sound waves bouncing around the interior of the coach, and unfortunately the rugs and furniture on the inside tend to absorb the waves and reduce their effectiveness to nil.
Good luck.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I have a 1983 camper with a metal roof. Not long ago, I was on the roof of my camper, and noticed all the metal surface was covered with rust, only topical rust, thankfully.
When seeing this, I thought to paint it with aluminium paint, but figured it would be best to seek expert help first. What can I do to first clear the rust, then to finally protect it? Any advice you can spare me is greatly appreciated!
Carmen
alaskanahimsa@aol.com>
Carmen,
I suspect the rust you are seeing on your metal roof is not the roof itself that is rusting, but rather something that got onto the roof that can cause rusting. Let me give you some far-out examples: Iron filings from someone grinding and the filings ended up on your roof; someone cleaned your roof and used steel wool to remove sap or black marks; someone did some repairs on your roof or the vent covers etc. on your roof and used a metal-based sandpaper. All of these examples would cause rust on your roof, but the roof itself would not be rusting.
That said, there are products on the market that you can coat the roof with. It is like a thick paint and comes in a couple of different colours. It is very effective in maintaining the integrity of the roof.
Go to any RV store and ask to see the product and read the directions. See if that is what you want to do. I do not recommend aluminium paint unless it is designed to go onto a metal roof that will be subjected to rain and sun at highway speeds.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
My wife is thinking of going on the road with me, as I work in the oilfield and am never home.
We are thinking of selling our house (since I’m never there), but the problem I have is not knowing which unit to buy.
Every dealer tells you their product is good enough to spend 365 days a year in. In Alberta, the weather ranges from 30° above zero, to 30° below zero.
Which unit would you recommend; living space and "R" factors are very important. We want to feel at home, and still stay comfortable in the winter months. I would appreciate some advice from you or anyone who lives in a 5th wheel year-round.
Sammy Tschetter.
s1967@telusplanet.net
Sammy,
There are various things you have to keep in mind. First and foremost is the fact that you want a unit that is insulated and able to stand cold weather. Very few units are built for -30°.
Second, keep in mind that except for the high-end units, none are designed for full-time usage. The furniture was not built for it, the rugs are not made for it, the furnace is not big enough to maintain an even, comfortable temperature, etc., etc., so be wary.
The most important thing to keep in mind is a 5th wheel is smaller than a house, and being too close together for long periods of time can cause problems. A 36 ft unit can shrink to less than 10 feet if your spouse gets mad at you.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
Presently I have a bulging wall (rear passenger side) on my motorhome. I was told that it was caused by a water leak that allowed moisture to get in between the laminated walls. This happened when the RV had only about 12,000 miles on it.
While travelling this summer, I noticed many other RVs with the same problem.
How difficult of a problem is this to repair? Are there wood products behind the wall or is it a steel frame? Can the bad piece be cut out and re-fibreglassed?
If anyone has had similar problems, I would like to hear from them.
Dan Brady
dbrady1946@aol.com
Dan,
It sounds like fibreglass delamination is what the problem might be. This is not a handyman fix-it job at all, and it is an expensive problem to correct. Some walls do have wooden posts in them, and if water or moisture has migrated into the interior of the walls then dry rot may be causing the bulge.
Get to a RV repair shop to have your problem properly analyzed, and then determine what you want to do to correct it after that.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I have a 34 ft Class A motorhome and wish to store it from September to April. Please advise me on what I need to do before parking it.
Ram Roop
Surrey BC
Ram,
To properly winterize a unit, do the following.
If you look in previous articles, you will find one that details how to properly fill all water lines with antifreeze.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I recently purchased a 1991 Class C Vanguard and wondered if you had any suggestions for a vehicle to tow behind this unit? I would prefer a small truck as I have the usual guy toys: rubber boat, plus engine and gas cans etc.
The engine in the motorhome is a 460 Ford; the vehicle length is 24.5 ft. I don’t have too much other information and would appreciate any suggestions.
Brian Glynn
Port Moody BC
Brian,
You should have no problem towing a small truck behind you. Make sure the truck is capable of being towed, or fit it with a drive shaft disconnect so the transmission is not engaged. Your engine and frame should handle it with no problem, but check the sticker for the combined weight of the vehicle and the truck to make sure you do not exceed the limit.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
In RVT 88, page 31, you suggested using a simmer ring to control heating on a stove. I have checked with all local RV stores and they do not have one or know where to obtain one. They go as far as showing me your article in The RV Times!
Is there any way that you can supply the following: make, manufacture, and part number or distributor?
Ken Watkins
kwatkins@telus.net
Ken,
The last one I purchased for a friend (because they couldn’t find one either) was at Fraserway in Abbotsford. They also sell it at Fraserway in Delta.
The Kitchen Company manufactures it, and it has a nickel-plated ring and a wooden handle. The Simmer Ring retails $3.95.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I have an Atwood furnace in my RV. It runs fine when the unit is plugged into 110 volt, but won’t run on 12-volt battery. Any suggestions?
Don McDonald
Don,
I suspect your batteries are not up to snuff and are therefore not supplying sufficient voltage to run the furnace fan fast enough to open the safety switch to allow the gas to flow.
Try a good battery in place of what you presently have and if that works then your problem is solved.
Bob’s Concerned
As I travelled across our great country this year I was surprised at the number of new campers I met. Some were renting, some were leasing and others purchased. A common thread between nearly everyone was a hesitation of what was to be done and how it should be accomplished.
Most were able to get the power connected, but then came the problems. Where does the water go? Do I fill something or does the hose get connected to something? Then comes the sewer hose. One end goes where? Oh yes, I see, and the other end gets stuffed right done the sewer as far as it will go, right?
I have seen people drive in with a unit that they picked up that day, and there was no water hose or sewer hose with it. I’ve seen others that did not receive adequate instructions on how to use any of the modern conveniences found in today’s RVs. The oven wouldn’t heat up (never knew the pilot light had to be lit). The hot water tank won’t heat up (didn’t know the switch had to be turned on, didn’t even know where the switch was). The water in the shower is backing up (you mean I have to pull the handle on the drain as well as connect the hose?). And the list goes on.
Let’s start with the sewer hose. Please use it at all times, never dump without it! (Sorry, but there are those RVers who still empty their tanks without using a hose). You should have fittings on both ends of it. Never put one end down the sewer receiver, it will block the main run and anyone upstream from you will be unable to empty their tanks. It is even possible that the entire hose could accidentally fall into the drain and then the campground owner is going to have to dig up the main run to repair it and he is not going to be very happy with you. I am a firm believer that the sewer connection should be airtight. In other words, take the cap off the receiver, attach a threaded adapter (available at any RV supply store), or rubber sleeve adapter and then attach the end of your sewer hose to that. The other end is firmly attached to the drain on your unit. Need I say that you have to lock it in place by turning it so the locking lugs are engaged? Well, I will, because I’ve seen it done the other way and it is messy.
Now that you are properly connected and airtight at both ends, if you open your drain valves and someone downstream from you has his hose hanging down the drain, at least the backup and mess won’t be at your connection. It also means that the smell associated with the holding tanks will be contained and not drifting all around you.
This is common sense to those of us who have been camping for a long time, but strange and scary to those who have never been exposed to it before. If you see someone that appears to be hesitant, offer your help. It will not only be appreciated, but you will gain a new friend.
As always, remember, Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
Over the past number of years I have had a tent, tent trailer, camper, 5th wheel (35 ft), Class A motorhome I have now settled on a 5th wheel trailer as the best for us.
After reading your recent Did you Know article in The RV Times (RVT 87, pg 26), I have a couple of questions.
I have been having the argument with other RVing friends that if you are pulling these 30+ ft 5th wheel trailers that weigh approx. 14,000 lbs with a truck (one-ton) rated at 12,500 lbs your insurance is probably void.
With the information that you put in the Did you Know article I have had to question (after twenty years of towing etc.) what is the real scoop on RV towing.
What I would really like to know, and I think that most readers would also like to know, is what is the real-world requirement for towing or packing any of the units out there, ie. campers, regular trailers, 5th wheel trailers. After surveying what people are pulling with, I am concerned that most of us are illegal and don’t realize it.
Last, but not least, where is a driving school located in the Lower Mainland that could assist me, and others, in the area to obtain the required license to pull these larger units?
Thanks for the help, I enjoy The RV Times immensely.
Wes Williamson
Wes,
Welcome to the world of unknown government regulations. One website that will answer all your questions (sorry for the pun), is the government one at www.icbc.com. They have a fact sheet for BC driver’s license classification system, a recreational vehicle towing fact sheet and a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating fact sheet.
I think if you read the above fact sheets you will be better informed than if I try to interpret it for you. Good luck.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
A great article in the May/June issue (Did you know? RVT 87, pg 26). You really seem to know your stuff!
I have been struggling with these issues for a year now since we bought our 5th wheel (our first RV). I totally understand the first four paragraphs of your article re: the restriction 20 endorsement, however, during the course of our search for an RV, it became apparent that very few sales people knew anything about it, and, more shocking, really cared!
The 5th wheel we purchased has a GVW of 4231 kg according to the ICBC registration. I have concluded that I do NOT require a restriction 20 on my driver’s license.
However, I am confused about the info in your last paragraph re the truck GVW. I bought a 2002 Chev 2500 HD with a Duramax Diesel. The sticker on the doorframe reads 4173 kg GVW. The truck registration papers from ICBC read 4251 kg. This appears to be opposite of what you are saying in your article — my licensed weight is MORE than the vehicle rating — have I missed something here?
Any light you can shed on this for me would be most helpful. We are quite new to this whole RV scene and want to make sure we are doing things correctly and legally.
Murray & Linda Ruehlen
Murray & Linda,
As to your question on weights: Please don’t get confused with the difference between GVW and GVWR. GVW refers to the weight you are licensed to carry and tow. GVWR refers to the weight your vehicle is designed to carry. So, the licensed GVW on your insurance papers is higher than your vehicles GVWR. This occurs because the licensed weight (GVW) includes the load you carry on, or in, your vehicle and the load you are towing.
Go to www.icbc.com and you may get additional information that might be helpful to you.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I don’t think I am confused about the GVW and GVWR of my truck — with due respect, I think you may be confused. My insurance papers as issued by ICBC state that the GVW of my truck is 4251 kg — nowhere in that document is the GVWR even mentioned! The plate on the inside of the door of the truck states that the GVWR of the truck is 4173 kg — so there is less than 80 kg difference between the two weights.
On June 14 I took my rig over to the ICBC scale in Parksville and had the whole thing explained to me by the official there. They weighed each axle of the truck, and then the axle of the 5th wheel. He then went to the owner’s manual for the truck to ascertain the GVWR of the truck as specified by GM. In my case that weight is 9988 kg and my actual total weight was 7520 kg, so I am fine in that regard, however, the total weight on both axles of my truck was 4030 kg, which is only 143 kg less than the GVWR of 4173 kg. I do now have an official piece of paper that shows I am legal.
Hope this helps explain my situation. If you are interested, I would be happy to send you a copy of the form he gave me with the weights on it.
Murray & Linda Ruehlen
Murray & Linda,
I don’t think it matters whether you agree with me or not. The important thing is, you went to a government scale, got properly weighed, and now know what you are allowed.
You are to be congratulated for doing what every RVer should do.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I am at a loss trying to find out the weight of my ’84 Wilderness (by Fleetwood), 3000 CL 19 ft 5th wheel. The owner’s manual totally bypasses the subject, and there isn’t anything on the 5th wheel that deals with this.
Could you please supply me with this information, or give me another source where I could obtain the information?
Richard Bott
Richard,
I would recommend you load up your unit just the way you would if you were going camping, complete with full water tanks and full propane tanks and then go to a public scale that the trucks use and have your trailer weighed. There will probably be a nominal cost for this service (about $5).
Somewhere on your unit there is, was, or should be, a plate with the year of manufacture, the length of the unit, the manufacturer and the weight. If it is an older unit, it might just be a sticker on the inside of a closet door somewhere. Knowing the weight is very important so you don’t overload it and cause mechanical failure.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
After an unreported mishap by our son (we think), the Dri-Z-Air was spilled on our Wedgewood cooktop. You can imagine the corrosion after sitting until spring.
I have scrubbed away the rust, now how do I refinish this so I don’t have more rust every time I check the trailer?
The added problem of dampness, because we live on Vancouver Island, was also a tricky thing to learn to handle after 25 years of dry Kelowna weather. We run a fan and have a light on in the trailer all winter and spring to try to out smart the mildew. Any suggestions there?
George & Donna Young
Courtenay BC
George & Donna,
The spill pan under the stove burners is heat-baked enamel, and if it has rusted the best you can do is replace it. An alternative would be to spray paint it with some high-temperature paints that you would find in an automotive supply store, but this would take a lot of careful preparation.
Your fan idea is good. Circulating the air reduces the chance of mildew. The light does the same thing by creating an air current. I like to see an opening somewhere so fresh air can get in and stale air can get out, without the rain getting in, of course.
Don’t forget to spread a few clothes dryer anti-static sheets around inside when you close it up. This will help to keep the air smelling fresh.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
Thanks for your info on 5th wheel weights and stuff (Did you know? RVT 87, pg 26).
My 5th wheel GVWR is 4700. My weight has always been well under this, so do I need the upgraded license?
Is the pin weight (which is added to the truck) also added to the 5th wheel weight to make the GVWR of the trailer? All whom I have asked this have said no. If the answer is yes, then I am overweight everywhere and need the new license.
Dennis Dahl
Dennis,
I would suggest that you go to the government website to see if their explanations will answer your questions — www.icbc.com. Look for the information sheet that pertains to Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.
Yes, in my opinion the pin weight of the 5th wheel is added to the truck, and should not contribute to exceeding the GVWR that the manufacturer has established for your truck.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
We’ve got a 1988 18.5 ft Vanguard 5th wheel single axle, with the springs under the axle.
Could you give me the cons, if any, of putting the axle under the springs so the 5er is higher off the ground?
Terry Mackian
Terry,
I see no problem with putting the springs on top of the axle, but keep in mind that this will change the angle of the unit when hooked up to the tow unit and that might not be the best.
Check with those people who handle axle and spring repairs for a more detailed answer.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
While RVing with friends, their RV filled up with an ammonia smell. We are both new to RVing and it took us a while to locate the source; it was coming from the fridge. It turned the strawberries black and everything in the fridge smelled strongly like ammonia.
The smell was extremely thick, and after we opened all windows and doors, it was a while before anyone could go back in.
We both have small children and we were perplexed at what to do next. Could we re-enter the RV to put the kids to bed after we aired it out?
How toxic is that smell, what exactly happened, and how should someone in the future handle a situation like that? It really gave us all a good scare.
Brigitte (Biz) Mettler
Biz,
The ammonia smell probably came from the coils in the fridge, which means the fridge no longer works properly and will have to be repaired.
You did the right thing by totally airing it out before using it. Any strange smell should be handled with utmost care as some of them might be coming from an explosive gas.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
We recently had our motorhome broken into and quite a few things stolen.
ICBC has a $300 deductible that only covers damage and theft of permanently attached items. We thought the TV and VCR were covered, but the VCR was held in with Velcro and is not considered permanent. Their criterion says you must need tools to remove it, so it was not insured. So if you want it insured you must attach it with tools. Everything else should be covered by our household insurance, but our 600-amp inverter, which plugs into the lighter, cannot be used in the house, so no insurance company will insure it.
These are just a few things to watch for if you think you are fully insured. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Fred & Margaret Lewis
The rattling of the glasses and dishes is driving me nuts!
When you are driving, does the clinking of your glasses and rattling of your dishes become an annoyance? Well, here is a quick way to quiet the glasses down and pacify your soulmate as well. Allow him/her to go out and buy some new glasses with the stipulation that they must come in a proper box with dividers in it to keep the glasses separate. Now, cut the top of the box off and put the whole thing in the cupboard. It is neat, attractive and convenient. No more clinking, and best of all, no more surprises when you open the cupboard door and the glasses fall out or roll out of reach.
Dishes can also slip around and rattle while driving, but they to can be kept in place by using some of the anti-skid matting that is available in many stores. Just cut a piece slightly larger in diameter than the stack of plates, bowls or saucers that you are using. Put the piece under the stack and perhaps another piece part way up the stack if you have a lot of plates or they are particularly flat in shape. This material is also handy to put under the lid of your casserole dish when storing.
There are many other uses for this anti-skid material, so don’t hesitate to find your own unique uses for it.
As the storage capacity of our units increase, we attempt to fill all available space that we can. Some of the things we put in are necessary, while others appear to be included just because we can fit it in. Then comes the problem of remembering everything we have and where exactly it is. Once a year, at lay-up time in the fall, we should take out everything we have in the storage compartments and discard what we never use. Then carefully restore what we feel is absolutely required for next season.
Let me know how it works out and I’ll maybe try it myself sometime, because Bob’s Concerned.
Dear Bob,
We park our RV on a lake lot where we have electricity and water hookups but cannot have a septic tank. I am trying to figure out how to pump the black water into a blue tote tank in the back of my pickup so that I can just drive the pickup to a dump station rather than hauling the 5th wheel to the sani-dump each week.
Will a maceator pump lift water up into the pickup? Any tips on which fittings to use to keep this from becoming a messy or smelly job?
Paul A. Warner
pawarner@bellsouth.net
Paul,
My suggestion would be to get the hook-ups to tie the black water discharge valve onto the blue, portable tank. These are normally available at a good RV supply store. Works very well, but you will have to lift it up onto the bed of the truck when finished.
A second way is to purchase the adapter fitting that goes on the discharge valve and ties into the blue tank and uses "water pressure" to empty the tank. This unit will pump the tank contents uphill if necessary. Again, this is available from an RV store (that I wish I owned). This will use water, and will fill the blue tank faster than expected, because not only is it emptying the tank, but pumping water as well.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I need to install a class-three receiver on the back of my 5th wheel for my tilt-a-rack scooter rack. Sounds like it is doable according to a tip I read in The RV Times (Wilara’s RV Tips, RVT 83, pg 25). Since this is after-market, where do you have a welding shop attach the receiver?
Gloria Cerney
dng@olypen.com
Gloria,
Go to a good hitch shop and they will do a proper job for you. Be aware that you are now adding a fair bit of weight BEHIND the axle, which reduces the hitch-pin weight and increases the load on the tires.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I read your Did you know article (RVT 87, pg 26) on towing a trailer or 5th wheel and the required driver’s license. I may have missed this info on a license requirement for driving a large motorhome. I have a 35 ft. Allegro Bay Class A with hydraulic brakes. Is my Class 5 driver’s license acceptable?
Another question: The motorhome is equipped with a BTI systems monitor. All the readings are wrong. Fresh water reads empty when it is half full. (I could accept this one as the anodes may be corroded. On my other motorhome I would add a tablespoon of baking soda and the problem would be corrected for a little while.) The grey water and black water are shown as full when they are not. Propane is shown empty when it is full. Battery is indicated low when it is full. I wonder if the monitor is shot. If it isn’t,what do I do to fix it? I tested the wires with an ohm meter and the wires seem OK.
I read your articles with great interest and enjoy the magazine a lot. Hope you can help me.
John Doskoch
mrleger@shaw.ca
John,
Great to hear that you are enjoying the magazine. Yes, your drivers license is valid for your motorhome. If you had air brakes it would be different, but hydraulic brakes are okay with a Class 5.
As to the monitoring system on the motorhome, it sounds like everything is acting up. I really don’t know what to suggest other than the panel must be broken. I can’t imagine every reading being wrong all the time unless it is inoperative. However, these units can be expensive for what they do, so perhaps time and money spent at a RV repair facility to have it checked first would be better.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
My husband and I are wondering if while driving in a rainstorm, the top bunk over the cab could get a leak? There isn’t any sign of water when sitting in a storm, but when driving in a storm, leaks appear! Hmmm? If this is the problem, how would we go about correcting it?
I think we might have bought someone’s problem! We are new to the RV world, and maybe jumped too soon, so now we are trying to fix things. It is a nice rig, low miles, but just this one problem.
Chris
Chris,
Welcome to the world of RVing. You don’t say whether your Class C has a window in front of the bunk, I suspect it has, and if so, that is where the water is getting in.
Driving in the rain means the water is hitting the window seals at 90 to 100 km/h and that is stronger that standing in front of a hose. It takes a very small leak for the water to migrate through under those conditions.
The window should be removed, new seals installed and the unit properly put back in and sealed. Have you noticed that in many other units driving down the highway it looks like they have replaced the window with something solid? Guess what they used to have in the rain?
If you don’t have a window in your unit, then I would suspect a leak from the side moulding or roof moulding. You might want to consider having your unit pressure-checked for leaks, it is a good way to find the source.
Once the source has been fixed then my next concern would be if this condition has existed for some time (unknown to you), then it might have been leaking ever so slightly each time it even rained and the moisture has gotten into the framework and started dry rot. This can be serious and expensive so have it checked out as well.
Don’t be discouraged. In most cases the fun outweighs all the problems.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I just got my May/June issue of The RV Times and read your column (Did you know? RVT 87, pg 26).
If you don’t have a proper class of driver’s license to pull a 4600 kg trailer, it is not impounded. The driver can be prevented from continuing, but if the vehicle is parked properly off of the highway, there is no reason to cause it to be moved or impounded while a driver with the correct class of license is found.
For information regarding weight, readers can go to our RV weight page at www.island.net/~cihp.
If I can help, let me know.
Constable Tim Schewe
Vancouver Island Traffic Services
Parksville BC
Constable Tim Schewe,
Thanks for checking my facts.
As well as talking to the government licence people, I was given the Driving a Commercial Vehicle manual where I got most of the information. Page 5 in the manual states that if you don’t have the proper licence your vehicle may be impounded. Glad to hear that’s not the case.
But RVers should remember, if you don’t have the correct license, your insurance may be invalid.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
We recently purchased a 1995 used travel trailer. While getting it ready for our first trip, we noticed a small puddle on the ground underneath the water tank. After removing the inspection cover under the dinette seat I discovered that the tank had radial cracks around the water intake hose fitting, which had been patched with some sort of tan coloured material which appears to have been poured on. The patch was loose and easily peeled off. The tank is made from a translucent white plastic.
Any idea what kind of plastic that might be (ABS, PVC, polyethylene), and is it repairable?
Ken Woodward
Kelowna BC
Ken,
Most plastics can be repaired if the preparation is done correctly. In some cases it is done with a "cold patching kit" and other plastics require "hot welding." The cold patching can be done by the average person if you can follow directions exactly. The welding is a specialized repair and will have to be taken to someone who does that type of work.
Sometimes, if it is easy enough to remove, and it is old enough to warrant it, a new tank might be a better route to go.
Bob’s Concerned
Bob,
I hope you can help me. I am a new RV owner and I find that I can’t cook anything in the oven. It burns on the bottom. I have tried different settings and it comes out burnt on bottom and raw or burnt on top.
Someone has suggested a simmer ring, but I can’t find anyone who knows what this is or where I can buy it. I have checked with the place where I bought the RV, and they’re not any help.
I just found The RV Times website and have found it pretty useful.
Debbie Scoggins
dks1980@attbi.com
Debbie,
You have come across something that I think has happened to every RVer at one time or another. In my opinion, here is what happens:
The stove is not as highly insulated as the one at home, consequently the flame has to come on more frequently to maintain the heat. Secondly, the flame is right under what you are trying to cook, so all the heat starts at that point. If you raise the shelf up any higher then you don’t burn the bottom as badly, but the top gets all the heat.
A couple of solutions that might work:
The flame on the burner may be too high. In other words, there is too much gas going to it. A shop that deals with propane adjustments could lower it if that is the case.
The second is to put a simmer ring under whatever you are cooking. (A simmer ring is layers of metal that have been punched with holes). They cost about $2.50, and can be found at RV stores.
We also use ours on top of the stove on a burner when we are cooking something that should be done slowly and we want even heat so it won’t scorch on the bottom. If you are going to use it in the oven, the wooden handle will have to be removed first.
Another thing that should be checked is to see how accurate your oven temperature gauge is. It may be reading too low and therefore you have the oven turned up too high.
Sure hope it works out for you.
Bob’s Concerned
Here are a few points that you should keep in mind if you are pulling a 5th wheel or trailer.
Did you know that to legally pull a 5th wheel or trailer that weighs more that 4,600 kg you must have a Class 4 or 5 driver’s license with a "restriction 20" endorsement? If you drive without the above qualifications, the vehicle you are driving may be impounded. This also means that if you are in an accident you could be denied insurance. Uh-Oh!
Now the question is, how do you get a "restriction 20" endorsement? First you must pass the Class 3 driver’s knowledge test. Second, you must meet commercial driver’s vision and medical standards, and finally you must pass a Class 3 road test using a 5th wheel recreational trailer.
A Class 3 license puts you into the same qualifications as any motor vehicle with three or more axles, including dump trucks and large tow trucks.
Another interesting item for those driving trucks pulling those 5th wheels and trailers – have a look at the gross vehicle weight sticker on your door frame, then have a look at the weight rating on your insurance papers. Do you notice that they are not the same rating? That’s right. The licensed weight is less than the vehicle rating. That gives you less expensive insurance and is based on the fact that few people load their trucks to the rated maximum. However, if you are towing a 5th wheel or trailer, your pin weight plus some of the other items you normally carry when camping might just put you over your licensed rate, or even your truck’s rated weight. My advice is to weigh the truck with the 5th or trailer hooked up and then compare to what you are legally allowed. Remember, if you are over your licensed rating but under your vehicle rating you can purchase the extra insurance, but if you are over the truck’s rating then something has to go.
Check it out and remember,
Bob’s Concerned
Dear Bob,
I bought a used travel trailer, and don’t know how to flush the potable water tank. I’ve seen articles that say to flush the tank, then . . . . I need step-by-step instructions on how to do this. Thanks in advance for your help.
Todd Galle
Todd,
To flush the potable water, I would add a cup of household, chlorine bleach to the tank, partially fill it with water, drive it around for about two hours, drain, fill with water, drain and that's it. If it has any smell of chlorine then add a few teaspoons of baking soda and it will freshen things up.
For the gray and black water tanks:
1. Hook up the hose to the drain and the sewer line.
2. Open the drain valve on the "BLACK" water tank. If it has a flushing connection, hook up the hose and turn it on. Let it run until only clear water is exiting the tank. If you don't have a clear drain hose, then just listen. When the water is no longer flushing out the solids it will sound different.
If you don't have a flushing connection, then wait until the tank is empty, fill the toilet with water, and then flush it. Do this a couple of times and it will tend to flush out the tank.
3. Close the black water tank valve and open the gray water tank valve. This will clean out the drain hose as it enters the tank. When the tank stops running. Pore water down the kitchen sink. This will flush out the gray water tank.
A trick I have found works well before getting to where I am going to empty the tanks is to put all the ice cubes from my onboard fridge down the toilet. As I drive to the dump station the ice cubes tend to rattle around and scour the tank sidewalls, which can help the sensors read more accurately as well as help to flush out the solids when I do dump.
Bob’s Concerned
Dear Bob,
I am a novice RV owner. I just bought a used Toyota Dolphin and I have been having some issues with the heat. I am in Washington State so it is still quite cool in the mornings when I wake up. The propane is on (full tank), the fridge, oven and stove all work fine. The heater has a self-igniting pilot light. It seems to work for a while, and then just stops working (usually in the night). The fan still comes on; it just blows cold air. I know fuses are good because I have a tester, and I replace the 15 amp fuses whenever one blows. I can't see in far enough to know if the light is going out without taking the whole thing apart. If I do take it apart, is there a way to light it? It is an older RV (1987), and I don't have any more literature on how to go about lighting it myself (if I can). Or, is this maybe an electrical issue?
Kirsten Ross
Kristen,
You have come up with a very common problem with a furnace. Here is what I think is probably wrong. If it runs okay when you are hooked up to shore power, and if it runs okay when the engine is running, and if it runs okay normally for a period of time, then what I suspect is insufficient battery capacity. Within the furnace is an item called a "sail switch." This switch monitors the volume of air that the fan is blowing. If it isn't enough for proper combustion, then the switch closes the gas valve, the blower still runs, blowing cold air but no gas ignition. This problem is very common when the battery is low or there isn't enough battery capacity. Perhaps a bigger capacity battery, or two batteries could solve the problem. The furnace is possibly pulling eight amps of power from the battery and that is a lot for a battery that isn't up to par.
Another possible cause is the furnace blower is just old and tired and the bushings are worn and causing it to drag, But I'd say the first outline is the main cause.
BOB
Dear Bob,
I am a first-time owner of a 2002 FourWinds Class C 31 ft. motorhome. In the past I have owned four trailers, and levelling was never a problem, but I am confused on how to level a motorhome. I am not sure what kind of leverjacks I should get, or what kind of levelling blocks I need. Could you please give me some ideas?
Anthony Mangano
Anthony,
I would not suggest buying hydraulic units as an after-market attachment. BUT, if you are going to level by driving up on blocks, then remember that if you are levelling the dual wheels put blocks under BOTH tires. If you only block one tire then you have the whole weight of the rear transferred onto one tire and the tire and rim are not designed for that much. If one tire could carry that weight then they wouldn't put duals on, right?
Have fun and enjoy the new unit.
BOB
With all the modern conveniences in camping nowadays, we may disregard some of the dangers that can be an everyday occurrence until our lack of attention catches up with us, or we see what happened to someone else that didn’t pay attention.
Propane is one of the greatest conveniences we have on-board. It is used in the furnace to keep us warm, it is used to give us hot water, and it is used for cooking and for cooling our fridge. We pay it little heed when it is working properly and consequently tend to ignore the power it has and the dangers it can present if proper safety procedures are not adhered to.
There are numerous connections between the propane tank itself and the various appliances that use it. Travelling down the road for mile after mile (kilometer after kilometer) can cause connections to loosen up in time. Then we have the danger of propane leaking into the unit or a compartment without us knowing it, and if a spark at the right time should occur then UP WE GO.
Turning the propane off at the tank as you break camp and leaving it off until you arrive at your next camp can prevent a horrible experience. The fridge will keep things at proper temperature for hours after it is shut off. Nowadays, fridges are so well insulated that little temperature is lost over an eight-hour period. Mind you, that is based on the fact that you are not opening and closing the fridge door frequently during the trip. If you pull into a rest stop for lunch, turn the propane on for the duration of the stop and then turn it off before leaving. This will help recover some of the lost temperature while it was off.
The oven is another area that needs consideration. Did you realize that the pilot light in an oven can accidentally go out, but the propane that normally keeps the pilot light on is still pouring into the oven? (There is no safety shut-off for an oven pilot light as there is on a hot water tank with a pilot light.) It is not much, but it is still raw gas and a spark or match at the wrong time might give you something to write about, if you are still able to.
There are many hot water tanks and furnaces that still operate with pilot lights instead of instant ignition systems, and of course they could possibly be blown out while driving. Not a safety problem here, just a nuisance, but why even have them on if they might blow out?
The safest way to travel with propane is to shut it off at the tank before hitting the road and then carefully turn it back on at the next campsite. When turning it back on, listen carefully to the regulator. If you hear propane going past the regulator by the time you have fully opened the valve and it doesn’t stop, then one of two things is happening. One, you have propane turned on somewhere such as a stove burner, or two, you have a propane leak somewhere in the system. Check it out. Determine where the propane is going before just lighting up.
Remember, Bob’s Concerned
Download the Oregon State Fire Marshall's Brochure on new US propane tank OPD regulations in effect April 1 2002 (Acrobat PDF document)
Dear Bob’s Concerned,
I inadvertently used auto antifreeze when winterizing my motorhome plumbing system. (I had stored mixed auto antifreeze/water in an empty RV antifreeze container.) Immediately upon discovering this, I flushed the system with RV antifreeze. I have a water heater bypass kit so none got in the heater tank.
My plan for de-winterizing is to thoroughly flush the system out with clean water.
Will this be enough to ensure my system is safe to use again?
Murray Broad
mlbro@bcsupernet.com
Murray,
I have a few unproven suggestions to clean out the water system, but because the system is now contaminated with a POISONOUS chemical, I think I would be better off suggesting you perhaps contact the antifreeze manufacturer to see if they can suggest some solution that would neutralize the antifreeze.
Sorry I can’t do better.
Bob
Dear Bob’s Concerned,
We just bought a 1990 Itasca 31 ft with a Chevy 454. I would like to flush out the cooling system this spring, and need to know how much antifreeze I need to buy.
Al Manaigre
alandellie@img.net
Al,
You have asked a question that I can’t give a definite answer to for many reasons. I don’t know if your unit is equipped with rear heaters, which would add a few litres of fluid. I also don’t know if your hot water tank is heated from the engine as well, and that would add a few more litres.
If you did not get a chassis manual when you bought the unit, then I would suggest you call the local GM dealer and get the engine capacity from them. If none of these options work, go to the store you are going to buy the antifreeze from and read the container. It will have a label on it with a formula showing the mixture percentage with water that will provide the freezing protection levels you would desire.
Sorry I couldn’t be more definite, but at least you will be going in the right direction.
Bob
New gizmos and gadgets mean more awareness.
Do you remember when luxury camping meant that you could put your sleeping bag on a camp cot instead of the hard ground? My, how the conveniences have changed. Nowadays, we compare the type and style of spring mattresses as well as the styling and colour co-ordination of the overall unit. Heavens, even if you are backpacking, the colour, style and functionality of your backpack is more important than ever. The interior of any motorhome today has more conveniences in it than the average house did 15 years ago, and this has brought about the necessity of being more aware of our surroundings while travelling and camping.
The multiple uses of propane for heating and cooking, the increasing use of an on-board generator for power, etc., etc., have brought on the requirements for greater safety awareness than was ever imagined. We now have propane sniffers inside the coach to detect and warn of possible propane leaks; we have carbon monoxide sniffers that will warn of possible lethal fumes from your own or someone else’s generator or engine. Then we have the trusty smoke alarm that invariably is placed close to the kitchen facilities and goes off nearly every time when cooking.
Usually the smoke alarm is the only warning device that contains a replaceable battery. (The others are hard wired into the main battery, and that is one of the parasitic drains that you constantly have on the electrical system.) An advantage to the newer smoke alarm is that with a slight twist it can be removed from the ceiling or wall, battery and all. That means as soon as the reason for the alarm is over you can put it back up. The old way of removing the battery was unsafe because usually the battery was not replaced (sound familiar?).
All three of these life-saving safety devices have test buttons on them. They should be tested on a regular basis so that you can have piece of mind knowing they are doing the job they are designed to do. If they don’t respond properly when the test button is pushed, then get the unit serviced or replaced as soon as possible. Your life may depend on it and,
Bob’s Concerned
bob@rvtimes.com
Bob,
I read your article on winterizing your unit in the Nov/Dec issue of The RV Times. I have put my rig away until April following your advice.
You didn't mention the motorhome itself. I have the unit on blocks; should I run the engine periodically until I use it next April?
Some folks I talk to say this will do more harm than good. Others say it keeps the engine lubricated and the battery charged.
Ray Spokes
mergspokes@vtechworld.com
Ray,
You don't say where you live or how cold it gets, but I will assume that you have done a good job of winterizing. When you say you have it on blocks, do you mean the tires are on blocks or the tires are off the ground because you blocked the springs/frame? Not important which way, just glad you did it at all.
Whether you should start the engine or not — there are arguments for both, but I feel you are better off leaving it OFF until April. My reasoning is that unless the engine gets up to an operating temperature (which it never does just idling), then it isn't hot enough to dissipate the moisture and acids that are being generated within the engine and in the oil pan area. In fact, you may be increasing the problem. Secondly, each time you start it you are scuffing the cylinder walls and bearings because there is no lubrication on them until oil starts to circulate, so starting it every once in a while only creates more harm than good in my mind.
Hope this puts your mind at ease.
Have a great year camping come April.
Bob's Concerned
Bob,
Your article on winterizing was informative, and I realize you can't put in all the items to be checked for winter, but you might want to pass on to your readers that a product called Dri-Z-Air, or some form of silica-gel (moisture absorbent), should be placed in several locations inside the RV.
I put the absorbent in a fine plastic mesh, and then to avoid spillage I place the whole thing in a clean four-litre ice cream pail. Dri-Z-Air comes in convenient pouches and the cage containers are available at hardware or RV stores, etc. You can also buy absorbent in bulk. I empty the buckets when the absorbent is about 70 percent gone and recharge with new stuff. It takes about three new charges to cover an entire winter (depending on humidity), less in dry climates. We have a 33 ft Class A and I put three containers in: one in the bedroom, one near the bathroom and one up by the pilot/co-pilot area. (Caution: this stuff is acidic and if spilled, clean up immediately or rugs, floors etc. can be damaged. That's why the buckets are handy, to avoid spills.)
Also, keep those batteries charged (the ones in the RV, ha ha ) before storing.
Alex Badiuk
alexbadiuk@aol.com
Alex,
Good suggestion. The chemical works very well and your advice about spills and keeping it in a plastic bucket are very warranted. The liquid from the buckets should never be dumped down the RV drain either, as it will eat-out every metal fitting on the way down and the way out.
If power is available, the electric dehumidifiers are also great, but provisions have to be made to drain the water out. It is not corrosive, but putting it into the holding tank could cause freezing problems if it got cold enough.
Bob's Concerned
Are you packing it in for the rest of the year? If you are let’s look at a few items and procedures you should keep in mind.
Take heart that you have done a good, proper job and you can relax by the fireplace!
And as always, Bob’s Concerned
Filters:
Fresh water in some RV parks is not always of the best quality. It can be much improved by making up your own set of filters.
I got everything that I needed at a large building supply store. I started with a female hose adapter that screwed into a filter unit containing a cotton filter for removing large particles. I used a 3-inch nipple to connect it to another filter unit containing a charcoal filter. I screwed a male hose adapter into the outlet of the second filter to complete the set.
Next I cut 4 feet off my water hose and attached new ends to both of the cut ends of the hose. I use the short piece with a pressure regulator between the tap and the filters and the longer piece between the filters and the RV.
I connect both ends of the 4-foot hose to the two sides of the filter unit to keep it clean and sealed when not in use. I change the filters twice a year. I add a little chlorine bleach to them to prevent the formation of bacteria when not in use for more than a week or two.
Bicycles:
When rigging up your trailer to carry your bicycles, scooter, handicapped scooter or power wheelchair, install a 2-inch hitch receiver on both the back of the trailer and the back of the tow vehicle (if it doesn’t already have one).
When you buy your bicycle (or other) rack, get one that fits a 2-inch receiver so that you can take the bicycles, etc. with you with the tow vehicle on day trips away from the trailer. If you already have the rack and it doesn’t fit a 2-inch receiver, a welding shop can weld it to a utility ball mount or a piece of 2-inch square tube and drill a hole for the pin. I bought an old bike rack at a garage sale for $2, bought $4 worth of tube and had a welding shop put it all together for $10 more. Now the bikes go everywhere with us.
Did you every stop to ponder the fact that as you are climbing a hill and having to shift into a lower gear to ease the strain on the engine, the strain, wear and tear on the driveshaft, universals, rear end and wheel bearings has not diminished at all, no matter what gear you are in? That’s one reason for treating your shift points and RPM with a little care. Those components carrying the full load at all times deserve a little respect and attention. The fluid level in the rear transfer case needs to be checked. The grease nipples in the universal joints need to be greased. The bearings in the front wheels need to be properly serviced and the correct tire pressure needs to be maintained.
If your holding tank appears to balk or accept drainage slower than you think it used to, perhaps the vent pipe is clogging up. The vent pipe goes from the roof of the RV right down to, and into the holding tank and is meant to expel air as liquid is drained into the tank as well as venting gases to the atmosphere. If you have a gray water and a black water holding tank then you have a vent pipe for each tank. Sometimes a vent pipe can be installed improperly and over time it can slip further into the tank. If this happens, then when the level of the liquid in the tank comes up to the lower end of the vent pipe, it can no longer expel air as liquid enters the tank. The only place the air can go is back up one of the drains and this causes slow draining from your sink, bathtub or toilet. A second problem can arise if the lower end of the vent pipe clogs up from grease, grime or other growth that again prevents it from properly venting pressures and smells to the atmosphere.
To correct the possible problem, go up on the roof, locate the breather caps covering the tops of the vent pipes and remove the cap. Some caps have a screw holding them on, others just pull off. Is the top of the vent pipe right below the cap cover or has it slipped below the roofline? If it is below the roofline you need to get it fixed. Not only has it slipped into the tank which means the top of the tank where the pipe enters is not sealed tight, but it means water on the roof can leak into the roof and do damage to the interior.
This type of repair is not for the average handyman. If the pipe has not slipped down, then get the end of the garden hose, stick it about three feet into the top of the vent pipe and turn on the water. If the pipe has any blockage in it this should blast it out and get things back to normal.
If you have one of the attachments for cleaning a holding tank via the toilet then put this on the end of the hose before lowering it into the vent pipe. With this attachment on you can lower it right into the tank, which will clean the vent pipe as well as the sending devices in the tank and the tank interior.
Did the earthquake cause any damage in your house? Well an RV is subjected to just as many vibrations everytime you drive it on the highway, particularly those cement roads in the USA. Vibrations can loosen nuts, bolts, and fittings in areas that you never dreamed of. Water connections, sewer connections, door hinges, window seals, etc., etc. Take a few minutes to walk around with a screwdriver and snug up all the loose screws before the water line blows apart or the drain pipe leaks water under the cabinets, or the rain starts to leak past the loose window seal and migrates into the inside of the wall. A little time well spent in staying ahead of the problems can prevent disasters while on the road.
Happy motoring and remember,
Bob’s Concerned
When rolling up your water hose, always roll it from the male end to the female end.
The female end, because of its shape, is less likely to get sand, dirt, and other contaminants into the coupling or the hose. When you have it rolled up, screw the two ends together to keep out dirt and spiders while traveling. If the hose is going to be stored for more than a few weeks, pour a little diluted chlorine bleach into it to kill any bacteria that may want to grow in it. Flush it well before its next use.
If you use the overhead cabinets in your RV for storing clothing or other items that have a tendency to slide back and forth as you travel, this tip may help you.
Pick up some cardboard boxes that measure about 8 inches by 11 inches. The ones that the linen stores get their sheets in are the best that I have found. Cut out the entire top and all but the bottom half inch of one end of the box. Set them side by side in your overhead cabinets with open end out. You can also space them so that some items can be placed between them. I have covered some of them with Contact self adhesive plastic covering which is readily available at most department, drug and building supply stores.
Happy travellin, eh!
How did your unit survive the winter storms? Did it leak? Did it freeze up? On the other hand, did you use it all year long?
If you laid it up for a few months, now is the time to check it out and properly prepare it for the coming seasons. Open it up and air it out to get rid of some of that musty smell. If you had put out those dryer sheets throughout the rig before closing it up for the winter it would be fresher smelling and all you have to do is gather up the sheets and throw them out. A good washing and vacuuming will spruce things up and give you the opportunity to check out all the nooks and crannies where insects, or mice, might have decided to take up residence while it was not in use.
If you have a by-pass system on the hot water tank and you used it in the Fall, now is the time to reposition the valves properly, put the drain plug back in the heater and get ready to fill the tank. Do not turn the hot water tank on until you have filled it with water. If you ran RV antifreeze in the water lines, it will take some flushing with clean water to rinse out all the pink foam that you will now create. Fill the water tank, turn on the pump, open up all the water taps and let the water run until all foaming has stopped. Now you can take a drive down to the nearest dump station and empty the holding tanks that you just filled up.
Next, we should check out the exterior. A good wash job, perhaps a wax and shine effort will make it look like a new unit again. How about the air pressure in the tires? What condition are the tires themselves in? Are they good enough for another season? Transmission fluid level and condition should be checked. Transmissions work extremely hard in motorhomes and the fluid is the lifeblood of the system. If you do not know how to check it, have a professional do it for you. Check the engine oil and consider changing it and the oil filter to rid the engine of harmful acid deposits that took place over the winter months.
Check or have checked the engine coolant. It is just as important to have proper antifreeze in the engine during the summer as it is in the winter. Antifreeze of the proper strength has many anti corrosion chemicals in it as well as being able to provide a better degree of cooling if it and your radiator are in good shape.
Now, let’s get out and enjoy a season of camping. Be safe and remember:
Bob’s Concerned
Sick and tired of toast crumbs all over the breakfast table?
Get a cardboard box about three inches wider and longer than your toaster and cut so it is two inches high, to hold your toaster. Cut a notch in it for the electrical cord to come through and cover the box, inside and outside, with contact self-adhesive plastic covering to compliment the colours in your RV.
When you travel, place the box with the toaster still in it on the floor under the table. The toothpicks and salt and pepper can also be slipped into the box when on the move.
You can also make waste baskets, magazine or newspaper boxes the same way when you can't buy one the right size. Just cut and tape the box to the size that you need and cover it.
Do you have unlined drapes in your RV that do not provide enough privacy or insulation?
They can be lined with a water resistant cloth shower curtain cut to size, hemmed and sewn to the drape along the seam just below the hooks. This also protects the drapes from picking up the condensation that can form on the windows in cool weather.
Happy travellin, eh!
How was your summer? Is it now time to check out the forgotten items before we pack up for the season or head off for some great fall/winter camping?
Now would be a good time to look at the front of your radiator and see how the bugs and dirt of the past few months have accumulated on the front side and in between the fins. Any accumulation can and will restrict the required airflow through the radiator that is so crucial for the proper cooling of the engine. Most accumulation can be removed by gently brushing with a small whiskbroom and then rinsing with a hose. Any insects/bugs that have been in there for any length of time are well cooked and very dried out so they can be removed easily. Be careful not to use too much pressure on the hose as the fins on the radiator are very delicate and you don’t want to bend any of them. Some people install screens in front of the grill on their engine to prevent bugs from getting in but generally speaking this is not recommended as the screen itself tends to restrict the proper flow of air. You are much better off not using a screen or if you are in an area where the bugs are particularly bad then install the screen but remove it as soon as you are out of the area. Don’t use fiberglass screening as it tends to have smaller openings and restricts airflow even more than metal screening. Just to prove the above statements, sometime take a piece of screen and put it in front of a fan blowing air on you. Now remove the piece of screen — see what I mean.
Another item worth checking now would be the state of your storage batteries. Is the water level up to where it should be in each cell? Are they holding a charge properly? Are the terminals starting to show signs of corroding? Will they handle the load required as the season gets colder and the furnace runs more frequently and the lights are on for longer periods of time? If you can’t do the proper checks yourself then take the unit to a shop that can do the testing for you.
Now is also a good time to have the strength of the antifreeze in the engine checked before winter. If it has been in the engine for more than a few years it might even be a good idea to have it drained, the system flushed and new antifreeze installed. Antifreeze has certain additives that work to prevent corrosion inside the engine. These additives wear out over time and lose their effectiveness. Draining, flushing and replacing will renew these important additives and ensure added years of trouble-free cooling.
An oil and filter change will also help reduce corrosive acids in the lubrication areas of the engine and remove harmful carbon particles.
I’m ready for whatever the weatherman wants to through at me — are you?
Bob’s Concerned
Well, after a leave of absence to get my health back in order and to make a move out of the major Lower Mainland city, it is time to get back in the groove and put out some more food for thought items.
I’d like to bring up the problem of tires again. After all, they are the only thing between our unit and the road, whether it is when we are accelerating, cruising or braking. Tire manufacturers today are doing a tremendous job of producing a tire that stands up under a wide range of abuse and in some cases this means we tend to neglect our tires until a problem arises.
The foot print or actual area of tire touching the ground is rather small and if we level our unit by using pieces of wood, or special purchased levelers designed to go under the tire we should insure that it is big enough for the entire foot print of the tire to rest on. Anything less and we introduce additional stress on the tire tread and sidewall. Nothing is worse than putting a piece of 2X4 under one of the duals in an effort to level out. In this instant we have more than doubled the weight on the one tire holding the entire load. The sidewall of this tire is being subjected to stresses it was never designed for. Sure, it doesn’t fail while you are sitting there but the damage has been done and the life of the tire has been diminished. Hopefully it won’t totally fail while you are descending that steep mountain grade with the sheer drop off the side. When leveling dual wheels always block both wheels the same.
Over and under inflation is also one of the major causes of shortened tire life. If under inflated, the sidewall is subject to additional flexing as the tire turns and this additional flexing generates heat that can and does result in sudden, catastrophic failure. You’ve seen evidence of it along the highways when you see pieces of tire carcasses strewn about. Over inflation can cause similar results in as much as the tread is subject to unmanageable stresses and can separate from the cord causing large strips of tread to come off. Sometimes the whole tread comes off and it looks like a large donut. Of course, in a matter of seconds you’ve lost air pressure and you’re down on the rim and fighting to maintain the vehicle on the road and under control.
You should check the pressure in your tires frequently and keep them at the specified setting. Air slowly migrates through the rubber and pressure goes down. Not unusual to lose a couple of pounds per month. Have a good, accurate gauge and use it regularly. A cheap, inaccurate gauge could do more harm than good so get a good one.
As RVers we need to be as responsible and as safe as possible and of course…
Bob’s Concerned
There are mold spores everywhere, and the damp weather of BC sure has its share. Sometimes it seems that the prime goal of these spores is to invade our treasured RVs. Ever lifted the lid on your RV toilet after the unit has been in storage for a couple or weeks and seen that blackish coating on the seat? Well, that blackish coating consists of mold spores starting to take over in the moist air. Now, can you imagine what the inside of your fresh water holding tank might look like after the same period of time? UGH!! Take it one step further and imagine you have a small leak in your RV roof that doesn’t show on the inside of the unit. Not only are you growing mold in there but you probably have a condition called "Dry Rot" which simply means that the wood roof, walls, etc. are slowly being changed to a dry mush that has no structural integrity.
But take heart, there are ways to prevent all these problems and prevention is definitely cheaper and easier than the cure. To prevent the roof leaks, have the roof inspected and/or resealed every year. When resealing make sure that the old caulking is properly removed and the area cleaned prior to re-caulking with the latest, non-shrinking, non-drying, liquid caulking compound.
To remove the mold that we might have in our water tank, pour in a mixture of water and vinegar, (one-cup vinegar to 5 gallons of water), and let it swish around before draining. Then add some baking soda before filling the tank with fresh water. This will sweeten the water and remove any vinegar taste. Another way is to add some chlorine bleach each time you fill the tank. This will also aid in killing any other bacteria that might be in the water at the time of filling the tank.
The best way to prevent mold growth inside the RV is to use it more often. Don’t let it sit around week after week. (Wish we could all go out every weekend.) Short of that, give a good cleaning after use and when possible utilize one of the various damp chaser units that are on the market. Good air circulation is also of benefit, so leave your cupboard doors open when in storage as well as the fridge doors etc. If you want to keep that dank smell from getting out of hand while everything is closed up for weeks on end then spread a few of the common anti-static clothes softener sheets, that you put in your dryer, around. Lay one in your fridge and leave the doors open, put one on your upholstered furniture, put one in the bathroom, and one or two on the rug. These sheets have a way of keeping things smelling fresh and clean just the same way they do when you use them in your clothes dryer.
Leak proof, clean and fresh smelling, what else could you ask for!
Bob's Concerned
The batteries in your RV that run your lights, furnace and water pump can take quite a beating if you are not hooked up to power. They get run down from the full charge level and then when we start the engine, (which should be on a separate battery not connected to the others), they get a real heavy amperage charge to bring them back up to capacity.
This heavy charge can create heat and possibly a boiling action on the fluid in the battery. This drives off some of the water from the water/acid mixture, which lowers the fluid level in the battery cells and concentrates the acid solution. If the fluid level gets below the top of the plates, that you can see when you look in each cell, then the plate can dry slightly and possibly end up shorting out over time.
These batteries are not maintenance free, they need your attention frequently to insure that the fluid level is proper. If the fluid level is low, add clean water to it to bring it up to the proper level. Clean water in Vancouver means water from the tap or bottled water that has no minerals added to it.
Even when you are plugged into power it is possible that the fluid level in your batteries will go down. This can normally be attributed to your on-board converter that does not cut off after the batteries are properly charged. In this case they are being over-charged and this can produce gassing. So, if you are plugged in over the winter months you should check the battery levels a couple of times and keep them topped up. If not, you may find yourself buying new batteries every year or every other year when everyone else you know only has to replace theirs every five or six years.
For those of you who do not have power plug-ins over long periods of time you should be aware of some of the on-board items that rob power even though you think everything is turned off. If your fridge is running on propane, there is an electric solenoid holding the propane valve open and that takes power. If you have a humidity switch on your fridge to prevent moisture from forming around the doors then the electric coils that heat that area around the doors takes power. If you have a carbon monoxide detector on board then it has power running to it at all times. Your 12-volt TV may have an instant on feature so it will be consuming a small amount of power all the time and there may be other items that you never thought would be powered during idle times.
All these conveniences can result in dead RV batteries that really take a beating when you start up the engine. A standard battery that we purchase for starting the engine will not stand up to this kind of discharge and charge abuse. The type of battery designed to be partially discharge and charged is called a deep discharge or deep cycle battery. It is built to withstand the deeper discharge rates associated with running furnaces, lights, water pumps etc. while not hooked up. The battery used for starting the engine requires a lot of amperage for only seconds while it turns the engine over and then it gets charged back immediately. On the other hand the RV batteries require much less amperage delivered over possibly days and then heavily charged to bring them back to their proper voltage level.
Save some money, check your batteries out. Remember that they have acid in them so wear protective glasses/goggles, and no smoking anywhere near them
Keep in mind that. . . Bob's Concerned
This is the information I got after talking to ICBC about truck licenses and you should keep in mind that we are talking about license rates, not insurance rates.
License costs, not insurance, is based on 150% (not 15%) of the vehicle’s NET WEIGHT which will usually give you a figure that is less than the GVWR rating the manufacturer gives that particular light truck.
Licensing of trucks in general is based on, and determined by, the wear and tear they supposedly impose on the province’s roadways.
ICBC in its wisdom, has determined that seldom do owners of light non-commercial trucks, such as 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton units, use the full weight capacity of their vehicle, therefore they get a break on the cost of their license by being charged less than the total amount possible.
Yes, there is a fine for exceeding the GVW rating of your vehicle and yes, there is a fine for exceeding the ICBC registration weight of your vehicle even if it is less than the manufacturer’s GVWR.
It is up to the individual vehicle owner to determine what weight his vehicle is going to be used to carry and insure that the figure on his ICBC registration slip equals or exceeds that amount. If the figure is less, then additional coverage is available for a cost. This additional license cost can be purchased at any ICBC agent. At no time should the manufacturer’s posted GVWR be exceeded and NO, you can’t license your vehicle for more than that, no matter what you are willing to pay.
I think this is another example of why, as vehicle owners, we should be more aware of GVW, GVWR, GAWR, etc., etc.
As you drive down the highway have you noticed an unpleasant odor coming from inside your unit? Let’s look at a couple of possible causes that are easy to check out.
Each of the two holding tanks you have has a vent pipe that terminates just above the roof line. They normally have a vented cap on top to stop any rain or debris from getting into the pipe itself. However, leaves, dirt, insects etc. all have their ways of getting into the vent pipes and possibly causing an obstruction. This can be checked out and corrected by pulling off the cap on the pipe, sticking the end of the garden hose in and getting someone to turn the water on. This should normally be enough to clear any obstruction. If the water fills up the vent pipe then the obstruction may need to be removed by using something like a length of pipe or metal rod to gently probe the entire length of the vent. Do this very carefully because you don’t want to attack it and end up punching a hole in your holding tank. Also make sure the length of the probe is such that it is long enough to reach the bottom of the tank but still stick out the top of the vent pipe. No explanation needed for the reason behind that suggestion.
Another reason for odor that you should keep in mind is the fact that the bathroom sink and the kitchen sink each have a “P” trap just below the sink. This “P” trap is designed to have sufficient water in it to seal the drainpipe so gases from the holding tank cannot escape up through the sink and into the coach. But, if you are driving down the freeway and have a window open you are causing a negative air pressure inside the coach and it has to try and replace the air anyway it can and sometimes it does it by sucking gases past the “P” trap seal. Close the window and if the smell goes away the problem is solved. Another way of overcoming this condition is to keep the drain plugs in place whenever traveling.
There are special design venturi caps that replace the existing caps on the vent tubes and they work very well while driving. However, if you are parked and the wind is blowing strong enough from the rear of the vehicle the venturi now tends to act as a funnel and increase the air pressure in the vent. This could be enough to overcome the “P” trap seal and allow gases into the coach.
A third reason could be that the vent pipe projects into the holding tank too far, which means when the holding tank level is high enough to block the bottom end of the vent pipe, gases can only escape by coming back up through the sink(s). This is a major problem and will require professional assistance.
There are various holding tank chemicals on the market for reducing or illuminating odors that originate in the holding tank(s). Some can do the job and still allow the proper bacterial action in the tank. Others remove the odor, destroy all bacteria and are detrimental to septic tank and sewer treatment plants. The chemical problem has become so great that some campground owners are asking what type you are using and if they feel it is not compatible with their disposal system they will deny access to their facilities. This, reportedly, has also been a contributing factor to the closing of some roadside disposal stations.
Anytime you use chemicals, use care and caution and follow the directions on the container exactly. Most of all, think of our environment!
Keep in mind that. . . Bob’s Concerned
No! Sheila did not fire me, as some of you have suggested. I had to take a leave of absence for medical reasons but I’m now back to try and put some suggestions forward and help out anyone that I can.
If your unit has been sitting all winter there are some preparations you should do now so that there won’t be any unpleasant surprises on your first outing of the year. Did you drain all the water out of your system and run potable antifreeze in the lines and drains before freeze up? If not you may have some damage from freezing and splitting of lines, water heater, taps, drain traps, etc. This will take professional help to correct. But, if you prepared for the cold snap then all we have to do now is get rid of the antifreeze in the lines, tank(s), etc.
Start by replacing the drain plug in the hot water tank that you should have removed last fall. If the tank had a by-pass system on it then turn the three valves involved so water will flow into the tank. Connect up a hose to your water supply line and turn it on. If you had also put antifreeze in the water tank then start filling the tank instead. Open all taps in the unit and let the water run until it quits foaming. Remember the hot water tank has to fill with about six gallons of water before it starts to emit water out of the hot water taps, so be patient. Shut off all taps, pour at least a cupful or two of ordinary household bleach into the water tank fill pipe and add enough water to fill it about 2/3 to 3/4 full. Turn on each tap one at a time until this mixture starts to flow out the tap, then turn the tap off. If possible drive around for an hour or so to agitate this solution in the tank. If this isn’t possible, then let the solution sit in the tank for at least four hours.
Now run some more out of each tap. The water tank can now be drained either by opening the drain or running it all out through the taps. Fill the tank with fresh water, open each tap until fresh water runs out (you may have to drain and refill the tank again to insure all traces of bleach are gone). What you have succeeded in doing is cleaning out the slime and bacteria that tend to grow in enclosed tanks and water lines. If you want to see what you have got rid of take the tank cover off your toilet in the house and run your hand around the tank walls! Yuck. If you want to sweeten up the taste of the water for your first couple of outings put a couple of tablespoons of baking soda in the fill pipe before filling the tank with water. This will also help to eliminate any residual bleach smell.
By now, it is time to find the nearest dump station because your holding tanks should be fairly full. Find a gas station and fill up then head home. Your engine should be nice and warm so now would be a good time to change the oil and oil filter. As the engine sat over the winter season, acids were at work attacking cylinder walls and oil so get it changed now to save damage later on. While you’re under the unit give it a grease job, and check out the exhaust system for obvious rusting problems that may have to be attended to.
If your fridge is empty and is to remain so for another few weeks, then put a couple more dryer anti-static sheets inside to keep it fresh.
Time to start restocking the cupboards because it’s time to start the camping season!!!!
Drive safely, enjoy the scenery, be courteous to others on the road and remember that . . .Bob’s Concerned
Tires – lots of discussion, not everyone agrees, but at least it gets you to thinking and that is great. Thinkers are doers and this world needs more doers.
Tires and brakes are, in my opinion, two of the most important safety items we have on our units. You need good, properly inflated tires for driving and stopping, and of course adequate, properly functioning brakes are right up there on my list as well.
Where do fire extinguisher(s) fit into this equation? Right up there as far as I’m concerned. It also could be a life saver. A small fire in any type of RV can spread lightning fast with dire consequences. A handy fire extinguisher used properly could make the difference between a scary story-telling event or tragedy. Everyone in your family MUST know how to use and maintain the fire extinguisher. Read and understand the directions written on its label for proper use. Also keep in mind that the dry chemical inside the extinguisher tends to pack down in the bottom and become USELESS because of road vibration from driving. Every couple of months pick it up, check the gauge or pin for pressure, turn it upside down and hit the bottom sharply with your hand - then shake it good. This should dislodge any compacted chemical and break up any lumps.
How many extinguishers are in your RV? Where are they located? How old are they? If you have to replace any, take the old one and try it out on your campfire or in your backyard. Learn how it works and for how long. You may be surprised at how short a period of time it really operates. Mount the new one(s) where they are handy in case of a fire, and that might not be where it was mounted by the coach manufacturer.
So far this year the weather for camping has been perfect. Lots of RV’s on the road, full campgrounds and community activities galore.
Drive safely, carefully, let the faster traffic get by, enjoy the beautiful scenery everywhere and keep in mind that . . . Bob’s Concerned
Have you noticed the great variety of books on the market that relate to RV’ing? There are books on full timing, electrical repairs and trouble shooting, general maintenance, running gear maintenance, plumbing, solar charging systems, inverters, converters and a whole array of interesting and informative topics. One of the common denominators of these books is they all cost money. Some are under $10.00 and some surpass the $30.00 mark. I’ve just been going through a lot of The RV Times issues from the past years and noticed that nearly all of the same subjects have been covered in one way or another and the total cost came to $0.00. You can’t get a better bargain then that in this day and age. If you have been keeping all your back issues then you will have a pretty comprehensive library of facts and information.
Here are some short, quick hints that may be of interest to you;
There are four quick suggestions that come to you free of charge, and they all are tried and proven. Good luck and remember, . . Bob’s Concerned
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