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Readers' Mailbox RV Times #89
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Send your letters by e-mail to editor@rvtimes.com, or by surface mail to 488 - F Bay Street Victoria, BC, V8T 5H2
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We have taken some of the most popular topics, and grouped those letters together on the "Tips and Letter Archive" page. There you'll find letters on Gross Vehicle Weight, Insurance, Sani-stations in BC, Maintenance for RVs and Safety for RVs. |
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| Deal on Diesel:
Diesel fuel can be purchased at the Real Canadian Super Stores (watch for the lowest price), and the purchaser will be credited with Ruth Enns ICBC navigation: For the letter on page 6 of the July/Aug issue (Trailer weights/brakes, RVT 88), here is the full ICBC URL to answer the question: ICBC RV Towing pdf Of course, this info is available on our site as well. It is www.island.net/~cihp>\ Constable Tim Schewe More free sani: I noticed in the July/August issue a mention of the free sani-dump at the Co-op gas bar in Nanaimo (Nanaimo BC sani, RVT 88, pg 6). There is also a free dump at the Husky gas station at Longwood Station on Turner Rd. (close to Thrifty and Quality Foods) just east of Hwy 19A. Peter Lazenby Where are the Canadians? We still haven’t received any orders for our book, RV Parking at the Fair (RVT 83, pg 24), from any of the Canadian folks. The sales have been good, but there are plenty of books left for you northern neighbours. We are gathering info for a supplement, with additional states and fairgrounds. We were asked when we set up a table at the Parker AZ flea market about Canadian fairgrounds. Can The RV Times readers give us some assistance and/or opinions about whether a Canadian supplement is a good idea? Pat & Sylvia Kelly Transvan manual: We are looking for any information for our ’79 Dodge Transvan. If a manual can be found, that would be great. If there is anyone who is familiar with these minivans, please contact us, as we are desperate for information. Pat Wong shondi55@hotmail.com Vehicle Width: The overwidth/awning issue has been resolved. According to Doug Elliot of ICBC, 10 cm on either side of the unit to cover the width of an awning is now permitted. The only province that has not provided this exemption is Ontario. Lori Masse RV fever: I wrote the letter (Pump problems, RVT 88, pg 14) about giving up RVing and our van, and living in an apartment again. Can anyone please tell me where I can find another 1979 Benji 20 ft. Class C, like the one we had years ago? Dorothy M. Wilson Skylark manual: I’ve just purchased a ’73 17 ft Skylark travel trailer. I’m wondering where can I get a manual for this model. I would like to know how to operate items like the hot water tank, etc. The couple I bought it from don’t have much knowledge operating it; they told me that they used it for sleeping only. Ted Caisip Phone home: I have seen lots of good information for RVing in The RV Times; now I would like to hear about telephone service. What’s reasonable for those of us intending on travelling across Canada and the US . . . do you still keep Telus and have a cell phone or pager? What economical ways are there to keep in touch in case of family emergencies? We plan on being away from four to six months at a time. E. Sutton Pocketmail promo: Great magazine! We look forward to each new issue and have always found several helpful tips to help us enjoy RVing. During the past year we have motorhomed across Canada and south to Texas. We took our laptop computer to e-mail friends and family. We can now tell you that we are able to confirm what your readers have advised in previous issues — e-mailing by laptop is NOT user-friendly. We took the advice of your readers and acquired Pocketmail. Pocketmail does work and is very user-friendly. Pocketmail is not sold widely in Canada. We were able to locate a BC distributor in Maple Ridge however who filled our order promptly and followed up to ensure everything was satisfactory. RVT readers wishing to purchase Pocketmail locally can contact Jess at 604-462-9749 or bellcamplog@pocketmail.com. Wayne & Sheila Jarvis Oktoberfest in Port Alberni, BC : We invite you all. Oct 18-19. Free RV Parking! 250-723-6935 or 250-724-5886. Cell advice: We want to take an RV trip from Vancouver across the country to Toronto, and possibly beyond to the Maritimes. It would be very reassuring to have a cell phone available for emergency calls with continuous coverage all along the way. Is anyone able to recommend a service provider with good area coverage, and a cell phone unit at a reasonable cost? Kurt & Edith Pokrandt Proper hook-up: As a long time RVer, and now a full-timer, I am shocked at the number of nice RVers who do not use a watertight sewer hook-up. This is just being a good neighbour. Also, without it you could plug up the park sewer system. It has happened that hoses have gone down into the sewer. These watertight hook-ups can be purchased for under $20. Don King Black streaks: Re: black lines from rain gutters (Which cleaner really works? RVT 65 pg 6). Clothespins work great, however, I have found that a piece of one-inch clear plastic hose — about 3-1/2 inches long and split along the top — glued to the bottom of the rain gutter drain works well and looks neater. It can also be removed and re-glued (with a glue gun) whenever desired. Ron & Polly McRae US travel info: John and I have received so many questions about travel across the border to the US that I added a very comprehensive Travel to the USA page on our website at www.rvliving.net. It covers a mega amount of information about all aspects of crossing the border: general information, custom allowances, travel tips, pets, finding campgrounds in the US, what to expect in the sunny south and so much more. Peggi & John McDonald Norseman: I have been given a Norseman “Apollo” Awning for my RV. It is missing the instructions, and more than likely some fittings. Where might I find instructions, parts list, and anything else that I might need to install this? Millicent Rene Millicent, The instructions and parts list or even parts availability is going to likely be non-existent. You will need to locate a service facility in your area that employs someone with prior knowledge of the Norseman awnings AND common sense to determine if the awning is going to be able to be installed properly and will function satisfactorily after installation is complete. This may be a tall order, as there might no be any way of determining the operation of the awning until after it is fully installed. Maybe some of the readers know where there is a stash of old Norseman products. Brian Yeate Window rubber: Can you tell me where to obtain the rubber that goes around camper windows? We own a ’91 Sierra by Cobra. The rubber has shrunk around the windows causing leakage. Cindy Landuyt Cindy, The rubber insert you’re referring to is not actually a seal, but a finish moulding that helps to hold the glass in while the adhesive sets. If your window is leaking between the glass and the window frame, you will need to have the glass reset to the frame. We generally send this type of repair to an automotive glass shop such as Speedy or Broco etc. When the glass is reset in this manner, you can usually reinstall the moulding so that only a small gap is now present where the join is, and this can be filled in and tooled with the same bedding compound that was used to set the glass. If the gap is excessive, you will need to order the moulding, taking a small piece with you as a sample. Fraserway RV in Abbotsford can usually get this type of moulding from Hehr Windows for you, if your local Cobra dealer cannot. Brian Yeates Wheelchair RVing: Our 16-year-old daughter has just had a stroke, and no longer has any control of her left side. While it’s too soon to know how much control she’ll get back, it’s likely she’ll need to use a wheelchair for some time, if not forever. We have an older 24 ft Class C motorhome, which isn’t going to be suitable for a wheelchair. All the Class A’s I’ve looked at are really two-person units, and unsuitable given that our daughter needs to go to bed much earlier than the adults want to! I’m looking for suggestions/solutions that readers have found worked for them — whether we need to buy a new RV, modify what we have, or? Dallas Hinton Dallas, There was a fantastic article written by Shirley Barrett about a year ago (A Priceless Project, RVT 84, pg 28) relating to Bob Price, who is handicapped and has designed a Class A motorhome for handicapped and able-bodied RVers. This Class A can be rented through Travelhome; you can see photos of the RV on Travelhome’s site at www.travelhome.com. This would be a good short-term solution until you can better assess your needs. Marcel Desjardin Car seat anchor: I put the May/June issue of The RV Times to one side so that I would remember to answer the question about car seats (RVT 87, pg 13). I received the July/August issue yesterday, and saw a reply there that jogged my memory. Dianne should contact the RV manufacturer and ask what they recommend. The forces involved in an accident may be more than sufficient to rip the anchor out of the countertop, as suggested in the letter from Peter and Karen Smith (Points of advice, RVT 88, pg 27). Constable Tim Schewe Jacked up: This is in regards to a letter in the May/June issue from Kjeld Frederiksen (Up in the air, RVT 87, pg 16). I cannot let this go by. There is nothing wrong with jacking a coach up on the jacks until any or all wheels are off the ground. This is a normal thing to do, and is not dangerous. To say that someone could have been hurt or the motorhome damaged if a hydraulic line had exploded is rubbish. When the coach is on the jacks, it is stable, and if a problem ever developed with the jacks, lines, or valves then the coach would resettle on the wheels (with the brakes applied) and that would be the end of the story. Dennis Uphill Phenomenal response: At the beginning of the week I was ready to hang myself with the telephone cord because it never rang. Now I can’t get anything done because it won’t quit ringing . . . in response to The RV Times ad . . . and it’s still summer! I can’t imagine what it’ll be like when fall comes and things start getting wet again. I’m getting the best ad response ever from anything I’ve tried. Many thank you’s. Fred Bailey New campground: While travelling through Oregon, I visited the Oregon Garden and Silver Falls State Park. Both were so lovely, and the little town of Silverton is so quaint! We had a great time and luckily found a brand new RV park, The Silver Spur RV Park, just on the outskirts of the town. The people were so friendly there; we said we’d recommend it. I didn’t see many comments on that area in The RV Times, so I thought I’d let you know my experience was fun. Karen Hopman Sani tips: Something The RV Times might publish is the locations of otherwise often unknown campsites. Some examples: There is a small free municipal site in the town of Burns Lake. And there is a free sani-dump in Port Edward; I found these by accident last year. Crystal Springs private campsite (directly across the highway from Lac La Hache provincial campground) has dry camping for $5 or $6 for seniors. It is a very nice setting right on the lakeshore. This minimal fee allows free use of the sani-dump and water fill-up. The fresh water is excellent (300+ ft deep well . . . the water across the highway is often undrinkable). Bill Birtch Forty years and counting: To Al and Phyllis Letts (Too old? RVT 87, pg 10), who are only 70 years of age: “Buy the motorhome!” My husband and I are 73 and have just bought a new trailer from Cottonwood RV. This is the fourth trailer we have owned since 1963. I cannot imagine being without an RV. My uncle RV’d to Mexico every year until he was 85, and I hope the Letts will be able to do that, too. Joyce Knapp Restore & renovate: I saw a request for restoring an RV in The RV Times May/June issue (Restoration, RVT 87, pg 7). Below are four websites we have on our RV WebLinks page of www.rvliving.net. (Our weblink pages are extremely comprehensive.): Conversions and modifications for all types of RV’s: www.coachconversions.ca In October, after a story appears in the RV Gazette, I will be publishing a photo story on our web page of the major renovations of our 38 ft diesel motorhome. If you need any more info, feel free to drop us a line. Peggi and John McDonald Drain the propane: Propane is a dirty gas. I enjoy an older type camper, and had to clean the tiny nozzle on my furnace once in a while. Now, when I am finished using the propane, I find it practical to drain the gas from the lines by closing the valve on the propane bottle while the appliances are still running. After the flames on the stove, fridge and furnace stop burning, I shut the appliances off. It will take a moment longer to light them again when needed, but this procedure will keep the lines a lot cleaner. Gerhard Winkler Perfect pies: Regarding the Bob’s Concerned question in the last issue (RVT 88, pg 31), I have a solution. I line the bottom of my oven with Lava Bricks. These are available from Home Hardware; the number is #6422338. Lay them on the pan below the rack, three will fit across. They diffuse the flame evenly. I can bake pies and never burn them; it is actually better than my oven at home. Nine come in a box, so you can share them with friends. I’ve been using these in my boat, and now my RV, since 1989. Charlotte Martin Duncan dumping: Just thought I would give you an update on dump stations in the Duncan area; the Tempo Gas Station on Trans Canada Hwy in Duncan is CLOSED and access to the dump station is blocked off. There are two RV Parks in the area (close to town) that offer dump station to travellers: Duncan RV Park & Campground, 2950 Boys Rd (near the Silver Bridge on the north side of the highway). The fee for using the dump station is $3. Riverside Campground, 3065 Allenby Rd Unit 1 (Go west on Allenby, which is south of the Silver Bridge — can’t miss it.) The fee for using the dump station is $2. Maurice Drew True satellite headings: The satellite compass headings provided by Dan at Digital Electric were very much appreciated. All the cities listed were close enough to where we were to be able to tune in. During our last trip (just completed) to the US, we covered several states, and when we had a clear shot at getting satellite reception it made it very easy to hone in on Bell ExpressVu. One point to remember is that the compass bearings provided are for true north, not magnetic. It took me a few frustrating days to figure this out, then I happened to look up Bell ExpressVu’s compass headings and noticed everything was about 20° different, so I subtracted 20° reading on the chart I got from Dan, and bam, I was locked in every time. If the reading was 139° true, it would be 119° magnetic. Hope this may help others when they are travelling. Al Badiuk Rubbermaid washer: Single RVers: We just started our BCLoWs (Loners on Wheels) this year, and so far have 12 members, with about 30 possible wannabes on our list. Being single and loving RVing, but finding it a bit lonely going alone (and very depressing going with a bunch of couples), we have found the Singles RVing group to be a real treat. We are not a matchmaking group, we just go camping and on outings together and have fun mixing with others. Personally, I find that my camperized van is the best investment I have made in my whole life! (It is also my everyday vehicle.) Many members have large motorhomes, some have Class B’s or trailers. All in all, you can have anything from a tent to a large motorhome and feel welcomed in our group. On September 13 to 15 the BCLoWs and NWLoWs are having a campout at Fort Langley. If you want to know more about this outing or group, call me at 604-534-9982 or e-mail freeasaneagle@shaw.ca Louise Perron RVing down under: We would like to RV around New Zealand and Australia. We have checked into one rental company, but it seems very expensive if we were to stay two or three months. We were wondering if any of the readers have a suggestion of what worked for them. Did they rent, or buy and sell, or do an exchange? We would also like to know if there is a book on where the Wal-Marts are in Canada and the US. Beverley Burmeister Beverley, Check out Sharing a dream with the Grim Reaper, RVT 85, pg 28, for info about RVing in New Zealand. I spoke to a lady at the Humdinger RV show last spring who had just returned from Australia. She and her hubby bought a motorhome there, then travelled in it for two months, and re-sold it for more than they paid for it! I have found info about Wal-Marts on many different RV websites. Try: RVproperty.com: Favorite RV Websites Lori Masse |
Ontario RV Times?
I read most of the July/August issue last night . . . it kept me up past my bedtime (hah!). The letters (and comments) are quite informative. It’s great to get so much feedback from RVers. Haven’t had time to read the articles yet, but I will catch up on them asap. I wish the magazine was available in Ontario (and had some Ontario content), but it might happen in time, especially if an Alberta issue flies? And congratulations to Sheila on her healthier lifestyle and continued weight loss. Go girl! Micki Harper Zero maintenance? Perhaps you could get your advertiser Nanaimo Humidity to explain how a heat exchanger with moving electrically-powered parts can be “zero maintenance” (Loving your RV to Death, RVT 88, pg 35). They may mean no scheduled maintenance, unlike other technologies that may require changes of filter/absorbant material or such. I’d buy the term “zero maintenance” for a completely passive device, like a pair of vent grills low and high, but not for something with moving parts. Keith Sketchley sketchley_keith_h@compuserve.com Keith, I meant ZERO Maintenance! There are no filters nor drip trays to deal with. The motor is a four-magnet tubial bearing assembly just like a cooling fan that NASA would use in a satellite where no maintenance IS possible. The turning motor shaft floats within a magnetic field, there is no contact except at start-up and shutdown. Yes, things do break, that is why there is a warranty. If you insist on doing some maintenance, I’d recommend vacuuming the intake louvres once a year. Believe me, sir, this crusty old tugboater gave the entire product line a severe acid test before considering starting this business. Fred Bailey Xplore this: Blue book: We want to sell our 2000 Travel Supreme 5th wheel with three slides. Could you tell me a website that I could get the blue book price for it? It is top-of-the-line with all oak trim and double-door refrigerator. I would appreciate any information you could give me. Joyce Boyett Joyce, There is no website that I know of that will supply you with a value for your RV. We as a dealership subscribe to numerous “wholesale” periodicals that are printed for the industry. Most wholesale books are the average prices of vehicles that sold at auctions across North America. The RV valuation books that I have seen simply depreciate RVs by yearly percentage decreases. You should also remember that the value of an RV will dramatically differ with the condition of the RV and the time of year it is sold. Check with your local dealers and newspaper ads as to what prices are being asked for similar RVs. Marcel Desjardin Tank repair: I’ve got an “oldie but goodie” 1981 Alpenlite 17.5 ft 5th wheel. There are a couple of cracks in the gray water tank, on the front facing side, about halfway up/down. I’d like to either have this repaired with plastic welding, or purchase a good new/used tank, which I could certainly install myself. Problemo — where I live in the BC interior, there is no RV specialty parts or repair place to secure either solution. Can someone recommend a suitable RV business handy to Kamloops, Salmon Arm or Kelowna BC that might help me resolve this particular dilemma? Jerry Munro Jerry, If you can fax us with a detailed three-dimensional drawing, we should be able to locate a suitable replacement tank for you. I wouldn’t recommend plastic welding in this case as a suitable repair, as the cracks are in a high stress area and the weld patch is not likely to hold successfully. With a coach of this age it is not likely the exact tank will still be available. You should expect to do some modifications to your plumbing and/or waste valves to make everything work properly again, but I’m sure nothing would be insurmountable. Brian Yeates Tire Pressure: Can anybody tell me how much pressure should be in my two front and two rear tires of my motorhome? Here is the vehicle and radial tire information: max. load as single, shown on the wall of front tire is 1070 kg Motor home axle load: front axle load 1769 kg (is half to be supported by each front tire?) Alan K. Lam Alan, As long as you have dual wheels on the rear, and those are your average axle loads, we would suggest 60 psi for the front tires and 70 psi for the rear. If you have only single wheels on the rear, then 75 - 80 psi for rear. Hope this helps. Ray Shillinglaw Lamp parts: We have a lamp on either side of our queen bed in our camper. The lamps hold two bulbs, and one of the sockets has shorted out. We have taken it apart, and only need to replace the socket with the extended wires. I have tried everywhere on the internet to find the manufacturer, Triboro, but can’t. RV service centres suggest we buy a whole new lamp at a price of $89, and of course we would have to buy two of them, as there are not any matches for ours now. The part we need would be about $2. Can you please help me? Leanne Cleary Leanne, I don’t know if you’ve tried this, but take the socket off the lamp, then carefully compare the mounting setup for it to the other lights on the market, including automotive and marine. You may find a socket that would retrofit onto your lamp in a fashion that would be acceptable and at a much-reduced cost. Many of the component manufacturers in our industry will not supply repair parts for their products, for example, brushes for furnace motors, and this requires either a large pocketbook, or in some cases, some ingenuity on our part. Brian Yeates Bigfoot and new Ford: I have a 1986 original manufactured Bigfoot 9.5 ft truck camper (approx. gross weight 1700 lbs), currently mounted on a 1989 Ford F250 HD S/C truck. My problem is that the newest truck that this camper will fit is a Ford that ceased production in 1998! The “fit” problem is related to the required tailgate width with all the newer trucks being about four inches narrower at the tailgate dimension. (The existing fit leaves less than 1/2 inch per side at tailgate.) Have any RV Times readers successfully modified a mid-’80s Bigfoot 9.5 model to fit one of the newer truck designs? On observation, the right side can be cut down sacrificing only storage space; the left is another matter because of holding tanks. Finding a 1998 Ford truck with a diesel seems near impossible, as they are apparently being re-sold to US buyers. An alternative (for continued camper use and a newer vehicle) could be to mount the camper on a “flat deck” chassis, or on a tow trailer. I have spoken with a local quality trailer manufacturer who has made a few trailers for use as camper “platforms” but he has no photos of the mounted units. If selecting a trailer mount scenario, is a single axle OK, or should it be tandem? I would appreciate hearing some opinions/suggestions/comments on the topic. Len Gibson Len, The situation you describe with the’86 camper is true, the tailgate width on the new trucks is narrower than the trucks of the mid-’80s and early’90s, therefore, older campers on a new truck don’t fit. There have been people who have successfully taken the 15C 9.5, and had local fibreglass shops make the necessary width modification. This is usually done to one side (curbside) only, as space is limited on the roadside because of tanks etc. What is required is that the notch in the fibreglass body is cutout, and then reinstalled 1/2” tighter to the vertical wall of the camper, thereby giving you an additional 1/2” of clearance. This will mean that your camper will actually be offset to the longitudinal axis of your truck by 1/2”, but this is not a major issue, as the load is still very well distributed. There are numerous people today who are in fact having custom Chassis Cabs fabricated with a deck to install the camper. Typically what is done is that the stock tie-downs are utilized. In the area where normally you have the sidewalls and wheel wells of a conventional pickup box, this area is replaced with storage lockers thereby giving you additional storage. Another advantage of this type of body is that many people have chosen to go to the F450, or F550 Chassis, which gives them plenty of capacity, especially for the larger campers (yours would not need to go this way, unless the storage issue comes into play). Unfortunately, I do not have the names of any F/G shops or truck body fabricators in your area, however the number of these shops does appear to be on the rise. In regards to trailering the camper, many people have gone this route as well. I’d recommend a tandem trailer, as this will track better, however strictly from a weight standpoint a single axle trailer would be suitable as well. Hope this helps. Bruce Paracholski Water heater: The water heater in my ’96 Jayco motorhome does not always light the first time I turn on the switch. Sometimes it will, and sometimes it takes three to six tries. I checked all the electrical connections and they seem OK. I also blew compressed air around the burner. Any suggestions before I take it to a service shop? Betty & Al Betty & Al, Although you have checked all the electrical connections, did you also clean and tighten all the ground connections at the water heater, including the screws that secure the burner to the burner bracket and the burner bracket to the water heater itself? You didn’t mention which make and model water heater you have, but some of them had an updated burner assembly available, and others do corrode inside the burner tube, causing incorrect gas flow to the burner port itself, thus creating poor ignition or no ignition at all. You might also have an LP gas leak through the gas control valve, which would then require a series of trials for re-ignition at the water heater if the gas was shut off between uses. If this is the case, you really need a qualified technician to make the necessary repairs to keep your coach working safely and correctly. Brian Yeates Re-decal to re-sell: Do you know what the regulations are for propane inspections? I have been RVing for 30 years and I have a 5th wheel trailer for sale. It is in immaculate condition, and everything works in it. As the seller, is it my responsibility to have an inspection done on it, or is it up to the buyer? I just want to know to make sure I am covered and not liable. Darlene LaFlamme Darlene, In BC it is the legal responsibility of the seller to have the LP gas system in the RV inspected and re-certified whenever a recreation vehicle is sold. Prices will vary somewhat from shop to shop, but if the unit is in good condition, all appliances work properly and there are no defects in the LP gas system, you should expect to pay about one hour of shop time plus the cost of the decal itself. Aside from the legal ramifications and liabilities, I feel it is a very worthwhile inspection to have done, even before you advertise your unit for sale, as you can then recover any costs you may incur to repair problems in the gas system, and you are insuring that the rig is safe to use. Brian Yeates Holding tank repair: I just read the Nov/Dec 2001 issue of The RV Times and thought I should respond to Ed French’s problem, (Leaky Tank, RVT 84, pg 6) though by now he may have found another solution. I have a trailer with black plastic holding tanks. About three years ago I got a hole in the side of the tank (from backing into something, I think) leading to leakage of black water once the level was about 1/2 full. I called an RV servicing place in Kelowna BC (sorry, I don’t remember the name). They told me that the tank was made of ABS material and could be patched with ABS cement, like the type used to glue plumbing drainpipes together. I painted it on over the crack after sanding the plastic. It worked well until last summer when I suspect I again banged the tank. It broke at the same place, suggesting that the tank was not quite as strong after the repair (but still servicable). I repaired it the same way again, but added some fiberglass mesh tape (sold as drywall tape) over the crack. So far it is holding well (at least until I back into something else again!) If I knew where to get flat sheets of ABS plastic, I could glue a re-enforcing patch over the crack for greater strength. I hope this helps Ed and others. Paul Plant Toilet dentistry: Recently our motorhome toilet suddenly developed a stuck hatch — the trapdoor would not close fully. This, of course, caused all the obvious smells, etc. Thinking there may be an obstruction in the groove, I poked and prodded at the door without result . . . still stuck! I was now faced with removing the complete toilet assembly to find the problem. Ugh! The RV maintenance manual gave a good diagram and procedure for doing this. But I am not doing it till I get a ring seal, says I! (My way of procrastinating.) Then I remembered that dentists often keep old mirrors and probes in a junk box when they have served their purpose. A phone call to my dentist supplied me with a mirror and a probe. Thus armed I went at it again! Lid open, knee on the pedal holding trap open. Head in. The dental mirror gave a perfect view of the slot in which the trap slides, and it was packed with toilet paper. Now, the secret is learning to follow a mirror’s view of a target, but after a few tries, lo and behold, I was able to remove the packed paper and the trap closed completely. I hope this helps someone who has a similar problem. Remember, the next time your toilet trap is stuck, talk to your dentist! Stan Hutchison Buying new: We are planning to purchase a new motorhome in the very near future. Is there a consumer’s report publication that would let us know what our best bets are for purchase in BC? We want to make a good decision, as this is a huge investment and we have made mistakes in the past purchasing second-hand. Verna & Jack Miller Verna & Jack, I don’t want to sound like a broken record, but my advice is still, “ask the person who owns one.” Also, ask where they bought it and are they happy with the dealers’ after-market service? (By the way, I must thank Lawrence Laursen from Pemberton who reminded me in the last issue of The RV Times that it was the Packard motor car ad and not the Buick ad that said “Ask the man who owns one.” (RVT 88, pg 10) Laurence is one hundred percent correct. I’m going to blame my mistake on a “senior’s moment” because I knew it was Packard — my uncle used to own one. Of course, that ad was well before political correctness. I’m sure they couldn’t get away with that verbiage today.) It would be real nice if there were ratings on RVs from a neutral source. It would make for good conversation when trying to sell a product that doesn’t have a top-notch rating! Marcel Desjardin Ripped awning: Two months ago we purchased a Wilderness 27.5 ft 5th wheel and went camping. The weather was so hot we decided to put the awning out. Within two hours the wind started, and just as we were about to put the awning back up, the wind caught it and there it went. The arms were damaged and the canvas had torn. The arms we can get fixed, but we are having trouble finding a place that can repair the canvas. Everywhere we have tried says it should be replaced. We think there has to be somewhere in the Fraser Valley we can get this fixed. Rowena Salsbury Rowena, Depending on where the canvas on your awning is torn, it may be possible to repair the damage. If it is close to the awning track, a good upholstery shop should be able to trim the torn fabric and stitch a new bead on, shortening the awning. If the tear is more than six inches or so from the edge, we’ve not found any repair to be satisfactory, as the awning will now roll up unevenly and is likely to billow when travelling down the road. In this case, new fabric would be the only solution. You also should check the roller tube carefully to ensure it hasn’t bowed and is no longer straight. Locally, we would suggest Happy Ho Upholstery for the fabric stitching, once you have the material removed from the roller tube. Brian Yeates Whitehorse Wal-Mart: In the summer of 2001 we travelled from Victoria to Denali National Park in Alaska via the Alaska Highway. It was the journey of a lifetime, and we met many wonderful people during the four months. We spent over a month in the capital of the Yukon — Whitehorse — and got to know many of the residents and businesses well. A more friendly and hard-working bunch would be hard to find. Whitehorse, without question, was one of the highlights of our journey. Wal-Mart recently opened a store in the downtown section of Whitehorse. Sadly, we have recently learned from a number of our campground hosts that Wal-Mart permits free overnight parking in its parking lot, which has caused a major economic hardship among campground operators. We are told that that business so far in 2002 is well down from 2001. The people who make this trip certainly are not poor — just look at the average rig making the journey! They ought to realize that campground operators have a very narrow window in which to make their annual income — usually about four months each summer. So, what happens when some (or most) close down because their business becomes no longer viable, and RVers are unable to find space because the Wal-Mart parking lot is full? Will Wal-Mart then supply power, water and sewage facilities? One thinks not. So RVers will be forced to bypass Whitehorse to the detriment of all businesses in the city. We urge all RVers to support local campground operators and enjoy their time in this lovely historic city, which has so much to offer all of us. There is simply no justification to camp anywhere other than at a legitimate campground or territorial park. David & Jackie Matland |
Previous Issues' Letters: Pilot problem: I am looking for information concerning the hot water heater in my RV. The problem is that when I light the propane and close the door, which is vented, it will continue burning. Then, for some reason that I cannot figure out, the darned thing goes out. If I leave the door open, it may stay lit a bit longer, why it goes out is a mystery to me. I have searched high and low to resolve this problem. Norman Norman, It sounds to me like the flame on your pilot assembly is maybe a tad too small, and when the door is closed, the flame is drawn far enough away from the thermocouple for the thermocouple to lose its temperature so that the gas valve is shut down through the safety magnet built in to it. I would suggest purchasing a complete pilot assembly with thermocouple for your water heater and changing the assembly. If this doesn’t correct your problem, the safety valve in the gas control may have also failed, and you would then require a new gas control valve, but this would be unusual. It is more likely the problem is in the pilot assembly. If you get the unit in to a repair shop, make sure you have them check and adjust as needed the working pressure in the LP gas system. Brian Yeates Not cool: I’m having trouble with a Dometic Americana fridge/freezer unit that is only three years old. It is in a camper unit that was stored for the winter, and was working OK last year. I am now trying to get away on a trip, but the fridge will not cool down on either gas or electricity. I am assuming there must be a blockage in the system. I have taken it for a bumpy drive with no luck, and have tapped the coils; still no joy. Can you shed any light on a possible problem? Do you think it could be a faulty thermostat? Roger Warburton rjwarby@telus.net Roger, Make certain that you have the camper levelled both side-to-side and front to back, because it must be level for the fridge to work. Next, check to see if the coils on the back of the fridge are getting warm. If they are, then the heat element is working. If you hear any gurgling or smell any ammonia, you will need to recharge or replace the cooling unit or replace the fridge. If the coils are hot and there is no gurgling or ammonia smell, try removing the fridge, sit it upside down and tap on the coils with a rubber mallet until the coolant stops running, then turn the fridge right side up and again tap the coils until the coolant flow stops. Repeat this process four to five times, then reinstall the fridge and try it again. Usually when the thermostat fails, the fridge overcools rather than not cool, so I wouldn’t expect it to be the problem, it’s more likely in the cooling unit itself. Also, it’s not unusual for a fridge to take a very long time to start to cool after an extended period of storage. Brian Yeates
Dealer training: I would like to share with The RV Times readers some exciting news about the changes that are coming to BC for all motor vehicle and RV dealers and their salespeople. After years of hard work by a number of people, including representatives of the RV Dealers Association of BC, we are working with the provincial government to establish an industry self-regulatory body. This new organization will take over the licensing and regulation of motor dealers, as well as deal with consumers’ disputes and problems. The industry is also proposing that the new organization will add training and licensing for all people working in the retail vehicle sales industry. There are a number of reasons for these changes, the most important being the goal to improve the performance and professionalism of the dealers and sales people throughout the province so that vehicle buyers will feel more confident and secure. Knowing that change can be slow with government, the industry went ahead and launched some programs on a voluntary basis. Since last fall, the Motor Dealer Standards Association of BC (MDSA) has been signing up dealers throughout the province and offering training and certification courses for their sales staff. Over 220 motor vehicle and RV dealers have joined the MDSA, and over 1,400 people have completed the two-day course. The course includes a class on professionalism, and the students sign a code of ethics upon completion. They also learn about the 27 different provincial and federal acts that effect RV sales. Consumer perceptions are also discussed to help dealers and salespeople discover how they can better serve their customers. Once a dealership has had the majority of their staff complete this course, they are recognized as “MDSA Accredited” and can use the MDSA logo in their advertising. RV Times readers can also go to the website at www.mdsa.bc.ca where they will also find a list of all the accredited dealers throughout the province. Earl Manning, CAE OPD muddle: While most readers of The RV Times know that OPD valves are not yet legally required in Canada, they should also know that the valves might be necessary to buy propane from some retailers in Canada. Today I tried to get a non-OPD tank filled at U-Haul in North Vancouver BC. The U-Haul employee looked at my tank and said, “I can’t fill your tank.” “Why not?” I asked. The employee pointed to an OPD notice and said, “Your tank needs to have an OPD valve.” “Hey,” I protested, “that is an American law, OPD valves are not required in Canada.” “Well,” he replied arrogantly, “we (U-Haul) are an American company.” And so they are, I noted that several of their rental pickups carry Arizona tags. Oops . . . that is license plates in Canada. David E Thom dthom@direct.ca David, I forwarded this to U-Haul for comment. See below. Lori Masse MESSAGE: Per your request for comment. The National Fire Protection Association on April 1, 2002 revised the LP Gas Code (NFPA 58). The code requires BBQ style propane cylinders to be equipped with an Overfill Prevention Device (OPD valve). The OPD valve is a float-activated device designed to reduce the potential for the overfilling of propane tanks. Without this safety device, cylinders cannot be filled. Currently, only 27 states have adopted NFPA 58. In these states, an OPD valve is mandatory. U-Haul adopted NFPA 58 on April 1 and requires its network of over 960 propane-dispensing locations to adhere to the code’s guidelines. We employ only trained certified personnel to refill propane cylinders and have been the leading retailer of propane fuel since 1984. Our program guidelines for dispensing propane are currently under review for our Canadian locations. U-Haul registers and licenses the rental truck fleet in accordance with the guidelines and procedures of the International Registration Plan (IRP). The method known as apportionment enables U-Haul to have a permanent plate on all trucks that will not need to be replaced or require an annual sticker. Jennifer Flachman Funny furnace: We look forward to your excellent magazine and use your website often to access the back issues. We have had a problem with our RV furnace and are looking for help/advice. We were in Colorado last October, parked at a local Wal-Mart, running on our battery with a solar panel. The battery was fully charged. We turned on our furnace and it started to run, but only blew cool air and then shut down. We tried the furnace again in Overton Nevada (again the batteries were fully charged) and it worked great. On March 22, 2002 we arrived in Ely, Nevada and the furnace did the same thing as it did in Colorado. We thought maybe it was due to a higher altitude, but haven’t been able to find anyone that will confirm this. I have written to the manufacturer and am waiting for a reply, but thought I would ask The RV Times readers if anyone has had this problem. Any solutions? Bonny & Gerry Serwa Bonny & Gerry, Intermittent problems of any sort are very difficult to troubleshoot and repair with accuracy. Once a component fails, the repair process is much easier to complete. Having said that, the first thing I would check would be the LP gas pressure, and the age of the regulator itself. You didn’t give the age of your coach, but most repair facilities are now recommending replacing your LP gas regulator at 10-year intervals, as the rubber diaphragms in them can become brittle over time and not properly control the gas pressure, or worse, develop leaks. The second thing to check for would be an accumulation of oils in the rubber section of hose that connects the regulator to the gas line manifold under the coach. In higher altitudes, and colder temperatures, the oil can thicken to the point where the low pressure LP gas cannot pass, and your higher BTU appliances will starve for fuel. Although your batteries are showing fully charged, I would suggest you still have them load tested and check the specific gravity of each cell to determine the true condition of the batteries, and then finally carefully inspect and renew any electrical connections between the batteries, the converter and the furnace to ensure you are delivering full power to the furnace. If all this checks out okay, you may be in the unfortunate position of waiting until the furnace consistently fails before a more accurate diagnosis can be made. Brian Yeates Toilet trouble: I am having a problem with the toilet in my travel trailer. When I flush it, the water keeps on running and never stops automatically. The water keeps filling up the toilet, and drains in to that little overflow hole on the rim. Also, my hot water tank pilot light goes off every time I light it and turn the knob to the on position. Ted Caisip Ted, You didn’t mention the make and model of your toilet, but here are some possible and likely areas to check. If the toilet is a newer style, foot flush model, it’s possible that the cable that is actuated by the foot pedal has stuck somewhere in the toilet and will need to be repaired or replaced. If the toilet is an older model foot flush, you may need to change the complete flush mechanism if you find more than a broken spring when you remove the toilet from the floor and disassemble it. If it’s a hand flush toilet, you likely will need a replacement ball valve assembly. For any of these repairs, the toilet must be removed from the RV, so this should be your first step in repair. Once removed, you should be able to readily determine the cause of failure. Most RV repair shops are able to pressure test the toilet out of the coach, if nothing is obvious once you have it out. The water heater sounds like it has a failed thermocouple or partially obstructed pilot orifice. These are available as a complete unit from any RV facility. If the pilot has a good strong blue flame and the thermocouple has tested to be good, you may need a new gas control valve. This may be the case if your pilot stays on until you turn the control to “on” in order to heat the water. If the pilot goes out, even while the control is in the “pilot” position, then it’s more likely the pilot assembly complete with thermocouple. One other very important consideration is the operating pressure in the LP gas system. If it is incorrect or fluctuating, you can expect all sorts of problems to occur. This is something that can only be checked by a qualified service technician with the properly calibrated instruments. Remember, when performing ANY LP gas repairs to check the system for leaks when done. Brian Yeates
Mexico updates: My wife and I just got back from driving 2,400 miles down the west coast of Mexico, which we do every year. I would like to make The RV Times readers aware of a few changes. We noticed that at all the check points the Mexican Army, instead of the federales, is now running stations. This is a much better situation. The federales could be very intimidating at times, and if you were a first timer driving to Mexico they could make you feel very uncomfortable. The two main check points past the Nogales border are as you cross from Sonora to Sinaloa, and one past the airport in Mazatlan going to Tepic at the Durango turnoff. My wife and I used to dread these two places. Sometimes it could take from a half-hour to an hour to get through the checkpoints. Now with the Army doing it, they just asked us a couple of questions and passed us right on. As a passing note, the roads are in the best shape I have seen them in several years. Both coming and going we saw a lot of road resurfacing that will make them even better. Now we have to hope that the rainy season doesn’t undo the repairs. The second thing that I would like to make RV Times readers aware of is the auto importation sticker that everyone has to get. Most of the winter visitors get a six-month permit and sticker. These are totally automated now at all borders. They are enforcing a rule that you must turn the stickers back in by the time they expire. For most people, this would be when they are leaving Mexico to return home. (Some people go back and forth all the time, and they would turn it in at the end of the six months.) The downside to this is if you fail to turn the sticker in, and you want to go back the following winter (as is the case for most of the Canadian winter visitors to Mexico), you will not be allowed to get another importation sticker. If you still have the one from last winter, along with the paperwork that goes along with it, they would probably let you turn it in and give you a new sticker. But if you’ve got a new vehicle and the sticker is still on the old one, or you had a windshield replaced and no longer have the sticker, you are probably not going to get in the country. There is a way to get around this. If a couple did not turn in their sticker the previous trip, and do not have the sticker with them, they can still enter the country with their vehicle if it is a different vehicle than the one they imported previously, and is registered in the name of the other spouse. The spouse whose name was on the lost sticker may never be able to get one again. To resolve this it is very time consuming and frustrating, and requires a trip in person to a Mexican consulate in the US or Canada. I am telling you this first-hand. Last year my wife got the importation sticker for our trip, and we traded in the car and forgot that the sticker went with the car. Well, for this trip she tried to get the sticker for our new car and they absolutely refused to give it to her — period. I was able to get the sticker in my name, because both of our names were on the registration. (I for sure turned in the sticker when we came back!) Most of the Canadian registrations that I see in the winter season only have one of the married couple’s names on it. I would suggest that you have the vehicles registered in both names. Or never fail to turn in the sticker! Bob Acosta Retiring via RV: I have been looking at motorhomes. We own a house, but it isn’t paid for and we don’t have much of a savings account. I guess when we were young we didn’t think of retiring, and now it’s here and we’re lost at what to do. I would like to sell the house to get away from the payment, and be able to put some of the money in a savings account. This way, if something did go wrong, we do have a little to fall back on. What I’m trying to find out is if there is anyplace RVers meet and talk about retiring, and what’s good and what’s not. I would like to talk to others, and see how they like full-timing, and if they still have a house or not. Angie Russeau Angie, We have been full-timing for 17 years. John and I sold our house and bought our first motorhome for cash, but when it was time to trade up eight years later, we had to finance the second one and the payments had to come out of our spending cash. The financial advisors I have talked to say you should borrow as much as possible — this way you use the bank’s money and keep yours invested. Dealers in Canada offer a great Conditional Sales Contract financing at a very good interest rate — check with them first. We have friends living on small pensions and others living on $4,000 to $5,000 per month. Amazing, but the last week of each month the money well gets very dry either way. Your expenses on the road will be much the same as your cost of living is now. However, you will need $300 to $500 extra each month to be a tourist, as well as enough to pay exchange if you plan to go south in the winter. Do not forget the cost of out-of-country medical. When it comes to talking to other RVers, some of the Open Forums on-line will be your best source. On our RV WebLink page under RV Resources, RV INFO and RV Link Sites are numerous web pages that can provide info. Especially we use www.rverscorner.com (Hosted by Les Doll) www.rvamerica.com (they also have a Canadian forum) www.escapees.com (many full-timers — most are from the US but also some from Canada) and www.FMCA.com (a very progressive and large motorhome club). These are only a start. Peruse our comprehensive RV WebLinks page and you will find many more helpful links as well. The best advice I can give you is if this is what you want to do, look until you find a solution and just do it. The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their dreams. MANY RVers also work on the road. Two websites that deal with working on the road on both sides of the border are www.workersonwheels.com and www.workamper.com/Canada. Others are listed on our RV WebLinks page under ‘Working on the Road’. If you do not have access to the Internet and you want to talk to experienced RVers, visit a campground near your home. Some have security and you may not be able to drive in, but many do not. Most RVers love to share what they are doing and how they are doing it. Visit with as many as you can anytime you see RVers parked together. Strike up a conversation and ask them how they got started? What type of RV do they have? Are they happy with it? Are they still working? Are they planning to trade up and why? If they are full-timing ask for how long? Do they supplement their income and how? However, if you want to look at the inside of RVs, visit a dealer. Be sure to attend all RV shows in your area along with Dealer Open Houses. John and I looked for three years before we bought out first motorhome. We wanted to RV for retirement, not as a weekend hobby, so we had time to look for the unit that we felt we could happily live in for a few years. This was long before the Internet so to learn all about it we talked to simply EVERYONE. Find a way to follow your dream, RVing is a super way to spend leisure time but it is also special as a full-time lifestyle. To borrow a phrase from the Canadian Military — there really is no life like it. Peggi & John McDonald |
BC Campsite Rates:
Average 2001 Campsite Rates for Private Campgrounds: (Note: Rates do not include 7% GST.)
REGION/AREA
No of Campgrnds
Max Rates Unserviced
Avg Rate Unserviced
Max Rates Full Service
Avg Rate Full Service
Vancouver Island
59
$12 - $36.00
$18.08
$17.00 - $45.00
$24.74
Vancouver, Coast & Mtn
38
$12 - $30.00
$18.77
$19.50 - $45.00
$25.65
Thompson Okanagan
66
$10 - $35.00
$18.88
$16.50 - $45.00
$25.71
Cariboo
16
$10 - $22.00
$15.67
$16.00 - $25.00
$20.20
BC Rockies
21
$12 - $20.00
$16.55
$15.00 - $40.00
$23.02
Northern BC
18
$ 7 - $20.00
$13.62
$16.00 - $22.00
$19.29
Total Province of BC
218
$ 7 - $36.00
$17.82
$15.00 - $45.00
$24.26
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