On the RV Trail in England |
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- by Gordon I. Schnare |
We had visited England on two previous occasions, but our third trip to this country possessing so much history and the foundation of western culture was going to be different.
A frustrating experience during a previous winter visit convinced us to plan our upcoming trip in the spring or summer. (We would strongly recommend great flexibility when travelling in England in winter, particularly if it snows.) After considering our options (a tour on our own with a U-Drive and B & B, or public transportation with B & B), we came upon an idea that had not previously crossed our minds. Why not look into travelling England and Wales in a rented RV?
The more we considered the RV option, the better it sounded for our purposes. An additional persuasive factor was the ability to include our Bristol friends who also loved to travel. Those of us who have used an RV at home know the advantages. Having our personal transportation, dining facility and lodging all under one roof became more appealing the longer we thought about it. It would be doing our own thing on our own time.
Our friends were more than thrilled with the idea. As they had already engaged a friends summer residence in Cornwall for one week for the four of us, we would still be able to spend two weeks together RVing. After my wife and I picked up the motorhome in London, we would later meet them in Bristol.
After making a few inquiries, we found a number of RV dealers not far from Heathrow Airport.
We chose a 22-foot Class C on a Fiat chassis. We saw pictures of the unit before departing for England. The exterior layout was almost a duplicate of most North American motorhomes. We decided I would take the double sleeping area over the seat, while my wife, Marie, who has knee problems, would use the table/bench conversion. Our friends had stated a preference for the rear couch/double bed next to the bathroom. (Our friend Marvyn, who was in his 80s, required frequent trips to the washroom at night. As it turned out, we were all part of a nightly passing parade to the toilet and everything worked out just fine.)
Deciding on menus was really quite fun. The girls organized an appropriate menu for the two weeks we would be on the road. Before departure from Bristol, we purchased basics for the larder and some food items to be used for the first three days. When shopping was necessary, we pulled into a shopping centre and made our purchases just the same as we would at home. Prior to departure we had agreed that all food and petrol expenses would be split evenly between the two couples.
I was designated as the driver, while Irene, our English friend, acted as navigator and co-driver. We had agreed to avoid the major motorways as much as possible, and frequent secondary country roads. After all, it was rural England, with its quaint little villages, markets, and fairs, as well as historic sites and picturesque countryside, that we were hoping to concentrate on.
The round-abouts presented a challenge until we developed a strategy of getting to the outside as quickly as possible and keeping a keen eye open for our designated exit. There still were a few rather hair-raising experiences. In one instance, we were travelling on a C road, with vines covering the hedges and stone walls rubbing on both sides of the RV, when the inevitable happened. After rounding a turn, there was a lorry, pulling an empty low bed that filled the entire roadway, coming at us. Although we were both travelling at a better than average speed, we managed to stop before making contact. After reviewing our situation, the driver of the lorry courteously agreed to back up to a turnout he had remembered passing. After about ten minutes we had solved one of the many tight spots in which we found ourselves.
It was in the center of Boston, on the eastern side of England, that we found ourselves in a most hilarious situation. It was about 11 a.m., and we were slowly moving toward the northern end of the old city square where we wanted to make our exit. Five converging streets, all quite narrow and full of traffic, serviced the north end. To my utter horror, a super large, extra-long truck, hauling a monster load of gravel, now filled our exit of choice. He not only seemed to fill our exit road, he was almost wedged into it. We both stopped, facing each other, and in the meantime the noon-hour traffic began to build up. It was coming along the other three streets, as well as the other side of the Market Square and behind us. For at least 10 to 15 minutes nothing moved, nor was anyone able to assist in moving, as more traffic kept building up behind in each of the five narrow streets.
I finally said "Enough of this," and left the motorhome, bringing with me a cup of coffee, and watched the proceedings from the sidelines. After finishing my coffee, I purchased some postcards in another little shop further down the street. Then I returned to the traffic jam I had helped to create. Irene had been standing by just in case there was some movement. The motorhome stood exactly where I had left it. It was another 45 minutes to a full hour before we were able to move, eventually departing this medieval downtown square of old Boston England. I was then reminded that I had once watched traffic in downtown Boston Massachusetts move in a similar manner at least 40 years ago.
We were surprised to learn that it was the smaller towns and villages that appeared to have a much better handle on traffic flow than the major centres. We drove through many an old medieval village or town with absolutely no problems. All we had to do was carefully observe the one-way and no entry signs.
Campsites in the United Kingdom are not as prevalent as in Canada. Also, standards for sites are quite varied. You are able to find everything from paved, fully serviced sites with immaculate washrooms and laundry facilities, to open fields with no particular designated spots. These are usually serviced by mediocre to poor washrooms. We found that many of the caravan sites associated with the historic castles and manor houses were among the better-appointed sites in the country. Not only were these usually located away from major highway and railways, but they were mostly a part of the quiet scene.
The point of interest was at your doorstep and the gardens and grounds in general were always relaxing after a hectic day on the road.
For anyone wanting to just park, as we sometimes do in mall parking lots in North America, the British pub owners usually dont mind if you spend the evening in their parking lots. (This courtesy is usually only extended after you avail yourself of the pub hospitality and the dining facilities.) In the smaller villages, these are quite satisfactory alternatives to a registered site, particularly in view of the fact that the pub is usually shut down after 8 or 9 p.m. and the village itself is usually like a tomb after that time.
We discovered early on our tour around the UK that it was wise to locate your campground quite early, and get settled-in prior to 4 p.m. There is competition for fewer sites by a larger population, compressed into a much smaller area than in Canada. For this reason, sites fill up quite early, especially the better-rated ones.
It was about our fourth day on the road when we chose a lovely rural site just inside the Welsh border. A young Cornish couple, who had exchanged life on a farm in Cornwall for the hospitality industry, had recently acquired the property. They had completed the rebuilding of an old gristmill, and most of their RV sites were fully serviced. The four stone cottages for rent were an absolute treat, as were the washroom facilities. While talking to one of the young owners, we were both quite surprised to find out that a critical part, necessary for the restoration of his mill, had been obtained from an old historic mill in Keremeos BC. We live in Armstrong, just 3-1/2 hours from Keremeos, and had visited the mill in the past.
After getting used to the huge place names and the dialect of the Welsh, we found this section of the UK most delightful. The people were outgoing, the scenery breathtaking, and the historic castles simply massive.
One evening, after pulling into a designated RV site (which was nothing more than a farmers field on top of a knoll, with a washroom built under the corner of an ancient stone barn), I proceeded to investigate the scene beyond the knoll while the girls prepared dinner. To do this, I had to cross a single strand of electric fencing. I dont think that I had made five steps inside the fence when an irate little Welsh lady in gumboots, a rather frayed jacket, and an old tattered hat was screaming at me. Although she stood barely five feet tall and weighed less than 100 pounds soaking wet she made it quite clear to me that under no circumstances was I at a towering 64" and about 250 pounds to cross her fence and possibly bother her sheep. I apologized profusely, and when she realized I was from Canada her tone softened. She had a daughter living in Calgary, a mere days run from our home town. I invited her into the caravan and produced a bottle of Scotch, still apologizing for my bold intrusion. After about three drinks and some initial chit chat we were getting lessons in the Welsh language. As the evening wore on tongues became thicker, and the Welsh words became longer. The entire evening was totally hilarious.
While travel in the UK may present some new and different challenges, we found that the satisfaction of not being tied to someone elses predetermined schedule, as well as the freedom to select your own personal itinerary and sites enroute, more than compensated for any minor inconveniences. When considering the cost and quality of food served in many English restaurants, as well as excessive prices for hotels or B & B accommodation, we certainly recommend any travelers to the UK consider the use of a rented RV unit or caravan. Fuel costs do exceed those found in North America, however, distances are much shorter. There were times when we didnt travel over 50 miles in one day and didnt have to think about replenishing petrol for three or four days.
Before you set out on an RV tour of England or the UK, do your homework. Information on RV sites, availability of RV rentals and detailed maps are all available from the British Travel Authority, BCAA, or your local travel agent.
Because there is such a concentration of historic sites, first class gardens, major museums, and cultural events available in a relatively small area, we would advise that you do your pre-planning in depth before departure. Consider finding a compatible couple to share your laughs and give a cross-reference to planning, as well as sharing costs. Having done this form of travel, not only in the United Kingdom but also on continental Europe as well as most of North America, we highly recommend it. Youll be able to tour in a rather relaxed atmosphere and not have a restricted schedule.
To assist in the initial planning, we recommend the purchase, or borrowing from the local library, of some of the following reference books. Good luck and happy caravaning in the historic United Kingdom!
Reference Books:
1) Discovering Britain & Ireland
National Geographic Society
2) 250 Tours of Britian
The Touring Book of Britain
Drive Publications Ltd.
for Automobile Associations
Farnum House, Basingstocke, Hampshire, England RG212EA (An excellent reference)
3) Insiders England
John Timpsin
Jarrold Colour Publication
4) England
Lee Thomas
Colour Library International
5) Guest Houses, Farmhouses, Inns in Britain
British Tourist Authority
6) Gardens of England & Wales
National Gardens Scheme
7) Michelin Green Guide
England & Wales
8) English Country Pubs
Derry Brabbs
Weidenfeld & Nicolson
9) Frommers (Frugal Travellers Guide)
England from $50 a day.
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