Summer has arrived. July seems like a good time to think of travel, and again the Charlottes come to mind.

BC Ferries confirm there is space for an over-height vehicle — our compact Slumber Queen on it's '94 Dakota — from Prince Rupert to Skidegate on Wednesday, July 26/00. It is necessary to confirm this because our goal is to visit the South Island, accessible only by water. While a number of companies offer various ways to visit Gwaii Haanas (the preferred name for the park on South Moresby) — by chartered plane, Zodiac, or kayak — "Anvil Cove Charters" six-day "Gwaii Haanas Voyage of Discovery" is the most appealing to us. Their package of information with a detailed outline of the voyage is thorough, and the brochures enticing. And best of all, they have space for two more passengers on the 53' schooner (for a total of seven plus the captain and the cook), leaving Friday, July 28/00.

With both these critical dates open, my wife Cecile and I take it is as a sure sign that the summer of 2000 is our year to visit the misty Isles.

Of course, if all we had wanted was to see the Charlottes, it would have been simpler just to fly there (as the other passengers on the Anvil Cove did), but we feel there is so much of BC we have not seen in many years, that camper and truck are the vehicle of choice to do this trip. As I write this in August, clearly, getting there was at least half the fun.

July 13/00

Morning spent scrubbing the exterior of our camper after a wet winter. Water, a combination of Fantastic and Vim, plus elbow grease gets rid of those annoying black streaks under the windows. A coat of polish and it looks like new. I check the contents, and top up the propane and water tanks (water tank half full to save weight). To really get the feeling that we are going somewhere, I chop some cedar into kindling to store near the wheel wells. The Dakota gets its clean bill of health – oil change, grease, etc.

July 14/00

A cruise among the islands where it reputedly rains two out of three days may prove to be a damp experience. Our 20 year old Gore-Tex no longer keeps us dry. To celebrate Bastille Day in Paris, we visit Taiga, the outdoor clothing specialist. The salesman has been to the Charlottes, and as he sells us our jackets, recommends we visit a particular village on Cumshewa Inlet. We add a pair of gumboots for beachcombing and wet landings.

July 17/00

An annoying sound (like a rock stuck in a tire) is in fact traced to irregularly worn tires. As this is the original rubber and I no longer have a teenager who could smooth out the tires (my mechanic's suggestion!), I feel the truck and our peace of mind deserve a new set before this long trip with a full load. The recommended Dunlop RV Radial Rovers make a remarkable improvement in quietness and ride over the old Wranglers.

July 18/00

We leave our son and daughter-in-law directions on when and how to cut the lawn, and drop the keys at our neighbour's for picking up our mail and watering the plants. We cancel the newspaper, and connect the fridge overnight.

July 19/00

Last minute preparations, and we are off promptly at 12:00 noon on an overcast morning. The plan is to avoid Highways 1 and 5. The moment we turn the corner at Horseshoe Bay the skies clear as we head north on 99 towards Whistler on the beautiful Sea to Sky It's hard to keep one's eyes on the road when the water and island views beckon. But the never-ending stream of tourists, S.U.V.'s, tour buses, motorhomes, trailers, (and yes, campers), and impatient locals requires one's full attention.

What a marvel of frenzied activity is Whistler! We drive past and stop at Nairn Falls Provincial Campground on the banks of the aptly named turbulent Green River. A hot wind blows down the canyon through our site and into the camper. Two jet boats packed with bouncing tourists flit up the river. The sun "sets" behind the canyon walls around 6:00 p.m. And now the breeze cools the campsite.

After supper we do the three km return walk to the falls. The rock walls are darkly etched silhouettes against the tumbling waters. At 9:45 p.m. it is still light enough to write by the campfire, in drum sections with a half of grill and plenty of dry mill ends for firewood.

Nairn Park is a "primitive" campground with lovely wooded sites for a variety of tastes and needs, drive-thrus, tent spaces (still a lot of happy tenting families around), pit toilets, and water from old-fashioned hand pumps — all for $12 per night.

July 20/00

We wake to the chuckle of rushing Green River and sunlight in the over-bunk skylight. I earn my omelet with a walk to the Falls again for a few pictures of the cascades. After a look at Coudre Point we are off to Pemberton to pick up the missing essentials including a solid green bucket for just $2.99 and Cecile shops for a few extras at the elegant new Mini-Mart.

Mount Currie road is a lovely, winding, take-your-time-and-look-around kind of country lane. The mountain scenery is lush, green, and breathtaking. Some peaks, valleys and sanddles are still under snow. After Duffey Lake, the country very quickly becomes arid, hot and desert-like, with rock bluffs and rugged escarpments pushing aside the greenery. Cayoosh Creek follows through this valley, following the rapidly descending highway to Lillooet with drops up to 13 degrees. BC Hydro's Seton Lake Campsite is a peaceful spot to break for lunch.

At Lillooet we cross over the broad and muddy Fraser. The road climbs relentlessly along the eastern bank, and turns to join 99 to 97 between Cache Creek and Clinton.

However, there is an alternate route to reach Clinton, what appears to be a short cut. The Big New BC Travel Guide, and the "Official" Road Map and Parks Guide for BC ($3.95 + tax), draw an intriguing grey line starting at Pavilion. The guide suggests this road "… leads north 31 km to Clinton over 2,089 m Pavilion Mountain." It is worth reading the whole paragraph, "… in the early 1860s, passengers had to push the coaches uphill (it was the 1^st wagon road in BC and part of the main Cariboo road) and freight wagons dragged logs as brakes on down-grades… The road is part gravel, part paved and pretty narrow… if there's so much as a drop of rain, pass this one by."

It is sunny and dry and it has been for a week. Why not? We turn into Pavilion, the only road is a back lane behind a row of houses. A resident assures me this will take us to Clinton. After 5 km of twisting, winding, hard, graveled, switch back trail (it seems fairly straight on the map), we meet a trio with a large pickup loaded with a pair of 4-wheel drive ATVs.

Yes, this will get us to Clinton. One km later the road levels off, widens and becomes absolutely enchanting not-to-be-missed driving experience, affording the promised, "spectacular views… a panoramic view of Coast Mountains, alpine flowers and cattle ranch perched on the mountain top…" exactly as claimed in the guide. And the heat gauge begins to drop.

A few km later, the road narrows again, climbs until we reach that 2089m summit. (Pre-metric distances and altitudes seemed more "real" – one could relate to what 6000 + feet would be like!)

What goes up in BC will eventually come down. BE WARNED! The Guide says only, "pretty narrow". Logs large enough to hold back an RV are not easily found. This is not a road for large rigs! There is no mention of the 14 degrees graveled sections that really get you standing on the brakes, wondering when it will end. But this adventurous and historical stretch is a must-see to experience this part of BC.

Finally, we are relieved to drive on pavement along lovely little Kelly Lake.

Clinton has not changed in the ten years since we last were here – we buy ice-cream at the same stand, and the pottery shop with the delightful blue dishes is still in business.

Gas is up (71.9c) and groceries in 70 Mile House. We drive on a new multi-lane Hwy 97 to the campground in Lac LaHache.

July 21/00

A 7:00 a.m. start should get us over the 250 km to Barkerville, and to a good camping spot near the showers. Hopes for breakfast on the road fade as, past Quesnel, all the eating establishments disappear. There is no food at Cottonwood House Historic Park despite the signs. Government Hill site nearest the Park has no showers, and we settle at Lowhee. We return and buy a two-day pass and rush to "Wake up Jake's Restaurant and Coffee Saloon", part of restored Barkerville. Revitalized, we walk from one end of town to another – there are only two streets – on this warm, sunny, mid-summer Friday afternoon. With a few tourists, there is plenty of opportunity to browse by the exhibits, read the information, and study the architecture of the well-preserved buildings. The dusty pedestrian Main Street features stagecoach rides and "locals" dressed in period costumes performing the tasks of milliner, blacksmith, teacher, lawyer, miner or shopkeeper. Speaking to them, one gets caught up in the historical moment as they address you using the expressions of that era. The effect is to jar one's 21^st century sense of time and place, and remind you of the subject matter in your history books.

We take the stagecoach tour through town (no springs!) and after an old fashioned ice-cream, stop by creek-side presentation on the operation of a Cornish Water Wheel of the 1870s, and describing the various types of mining practiced in Barkerville. The performers involve the audience and everyone is wonderfully entertained.

At the end of Lowhee Park begins a 30 minute trail to Barkerville Cemetery. Well restored, these headstones leave one wondering about the days when the average span of a miner was 32 years.

July 22/00

It is a cool night at this elevation. We breakfast and head for Barkerville, day two. Surprisingly few tourists – only four RV's in the lot at 9:30 a.m. I do a sketch of the much-photographed Savior's Church and catch up with Cecile at the other end of town for a half hour stroll to BC's 8^th oldest courthouse in Richfield, site of the first gold digs in 1861-62. Actors playing court recorder and Judge Mathews Bailey Begbie, the "hanging judge", review the law as practiced in the late 1800's. Begbie's nasty reputation was apparently not deserved.

A hilarious presentation, the "Wheeler Dealers", in the town fire hall, presents a spoof on life and entertainment in the mining town.

By 3 o'clock, we decide we have "been there, seen that, done that" as we look down the list of activities. We leave Barkerville for the 56 km return drive to Bowron Lake. Seeing the white caps, we abandon the idea of canoeing on the lake, a mountain–ringed gem of Cariboo water.

A quick drive to Wells for gas (but no Vancouver Sun which is only received twice a week and today isn't one of those days – no crossword!) and we are back in the campground for one last night. Sleep to torrential downpour.

July 23/00

Back to Quesnel, turn right at the world's largest goldpan and head for Prince George. Long discussion yesterday over the possible "overweight" camper/load. A check at the scales reveals that yes, we are 300 + kilo over!

Project: lighten load before next trip. Make two piles, etc, etc, discard brochures, less cedar kindling, glad to have new tires, (still, no sway or undue strain even on Pavilion-Clinton road).

Brief stop at information office ,(no new brochures), and we head west on Hwy. 16, the Yellowhead.

The rolling, hilly countryside climbs inexorably towards the coast. We get to Telkwa and one of the nicest campgrounds on Tyhee Lake, 10km before Smithers and in the Bulkley Valley. Blessed with loons, their calls lull one to sleep. (Local boaters feel the lake has gone to the birds that are overly protected.) We are sufficiently far north to enjoy light in the evening even at 10:00 p.m. – all this for $17.50 per night, (new showers!).

July 24/00

The camp supervisor recommends a tour of Telkwa before we head further west. We stop at Coffee Joe's across from the meeting of the Bulkley and Telkwa River. The owner, an interesting lady who has driven loggingtrucks and gutted and skinned elk, now runs this charming establishment. Telkwa, she says, was the original location of the area's town until Smithers outpaced it. Smithers is a bustling, going concern with all facilities.

We go on to Terrace and visit Lakelse Campground, set in a grove of old cedars that a logging company would kill for. The nearby hotel/hotsprings are disappointing and we push on to Prince Rupert.

Rounded and worn during the ice age, snow and occasional glaciers still rest in the narrow valleys protected from the sun and decorated with waterfalls. Even in the cloud cover and frequent showers we encounter, these Coast Mountains present a mature, colorful, stark beauty that contrasts markedly with the ruggedness we associate with the southern Coast Ranges.

Highway 16 from Terrace follows closely along the Skeena. Scores of fishermen line the banks. From it's many-channeled upper reaches, it gradually broadens into a vast fiord as we approach Rupert, the mountains dropping precipitously into it's jade-green depths. CN Rail and thankfully, the highway, parallel each other and the Skeena for over 100 km, nearly to its mouth.

Prince Rupert is a cloudy (really cloudy!) rainy, coastal town of restored buildings and few quaint tourist attractions like Cow Bay with its gift shops, restaurants and coffee houses. Since it is a destination and turn-around point for cruise ships, ferries, airlines, and the mainland end of Hwy 16, accommodations are at premium. We are fortunate to get a room at the Coast Hotel. It has been raining steadily and a small camper shrinks in wet weather. Our 6^th floor room gives an angular view of the harbour.

July 25/00

Breakfast in the room from goods in the camper! Head for the ferry docks to unravel mysteries of boarding tomorrow. No problem – show up at 10:00 a.m. for 11:00 a.m. departure.

We visit the Museum of the North in the reconstruction of a loghouse featuring totems, native crafts, and models displaying pioneer life. Not to be missed!

We then drive to Port Edward to see National Historic Site of a cannery, which closed in 1975. Of 1200 such industries around the turn of the century, only 40 remain active today. A good tour including a one-person show by a young native girl who reenacts a lot of history of the period. We finish with an excellent snack in the coffee shop, one of the buildings left among these elevated waterside structures. There is even a B&B among them.

Return to Rupert, pick up laundry, take an evening walk "downtown" to buy the Vancouver Sun at $1.75 (for a mid-week paper). We will read it slowly!

Knowing we will have been cruising and camping for 13 + days, we reserve a room for our return night. Weather "opens up" this evening. Will it clear for the crossing? Poured again last night. We ask for a 7:45 a.m. wake-up call, just in case.

. . . continued next issue

Recommended Reading
A Guide to the Queen Charlotte Islands
by Neil G. Carey
Alaska NW Publishing Co.

Haida Gwaii, Journeys through the Q.C. Islands
by Ian Gill
Raincoast Books

Ninstints, Haida World Heritage Site
by George F. MacDonald
UBC Press

Contacts:
Anvil Cove Charters
PO Box 454
Queen Charlotte City BC V0T 1S0
Ph/fax: 250-559-8207
www.qcislands.net/anvilcove

Queen Charlotte Visitor Info Centre
PO Box 819
Queen Charlotte City BC V0T 1S0
Ph: 250-559-8316
www.qcinfo.com