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Al checked the lights once more and closed the door.

“Are we ready to go?” he asked, with a smile on his face.

“Ready to go,” I answered as I checked my purse and wallet.

He climbed into the driver’s seat and slowly pulled out of the driveway. It’s 6:40 Friday morning, under an overcast sky. We are leaving North Vancouver and approaching the Second Narrows Bridge, over Burrard inlet. The city of Vancouver is in the distance, slowly coming to life. Light traffic through the Cassiar Connector Tunnel (built 1992), we settle down to enjoy one of the most diverse and picturesque parts of British Columbia.

Travelling Highway 1 at 90 km we pass through Burnaby, over the railway bridge of the Great Northern Railway and Mary Hill bypass, which leads to Port Coquitlam, Pitt Meadows, Maple Ridge and Haney.

The 2,104m Port Mann Bridge, built in 1964, at a cost of $25 million, spans the mighty Fraser River, connecting Coquitlam and Surrey (Canada’s fastest growing municipality).

Bypassing Langley the highway widens to four lanes, separated by a median. Aldergrove and the Sumas US border crossing is a short distance south.

Lush, green farmlands and the Vedder Canal dot the landscape as we enter Chilliwack. The mild climate and fertile soil make this the heart of the Fraser Valley. A very popular recreation area, Chilliwack boasts many RV parks and a large British Columbia tourist information centre.

The Agassiz turnoff to Harrison Hotsprings outside Chilliwack tempts us, but we pass Bridel Falls waterslides, DinoTown, an RV park, stores and restaurants.

As we travel every kilometer, the mountains loom higher and closer. The Coastal Mountain range is the backdrop to the Fraser Valley; we are nearing Hope and the Fraser Canyon (Exit 170).

The town of Hope (147 kms west of Vancouver) is the terminus of Hwy 1 (Fraser Canyon), Highway 3 (Crowsnest Pass) to Princeton, and Hwy 5 (Coquihalla Hwy) to Merritt and Kamloops.

Although some discrepancy lies in whether the Fraser Canyon starts at Hope or Yale (24 kms north), the magnificent mountain scenery and slow moving Fraser River offer much to enjoy.

The highway winds through small towns and changing climate zones. Clean fresh air, lush green cedars, firs, weeping willow trees, campgrounds, lakes and hiking trails make this trip a true outdoor experience.

The four lane Highway follows the river. Still raining, we pass through Yale, a historic town founded in 1848 as a fur trading post. St. John the Divine Church, the oldest church in British Columbia, was built here in 1859. A gold rush town and rich in history, Yale has a museum and national monument to acknowledge the Chinese railway workers.

The first of seven tunnels, the short Yale Tunnel (1.5 kms north of Yale), takes us through the hard rock of the mountains. The very busy train tracks hug the Fraser River shore and run parallel to the road. Saddle Rock Tunnel, (5.5 kms) north of Yale and the long, straight Sailor Bar Tunnel, (12 kms) from Yale leads us into the tiny town of Spuzzum (a native word meaning “little flat”).

The Alexandra Bridge crosses over the Fraser River canyon, 20 kms from Yale. At the end of the bridge is the Alexandra Bridge Provincial Park and picnic grounds. The long (290m), curving Alexandra Bridge tunnel leads us into Hells Gate Fishways and the 101m Hells Gate Tunnel.

Two million sockeye salmon per year, on their way to the island spawning grounds, pass through the Hells Gate Fishways. The long 100m curved cement Ferrabee Tunnel takes us into Hells Gate, 31 KMS north of Yale. The Fraser River surges through this 34m gorge at 200 million gallons of water a minute. A popular tourist attraction, the Hell’s Gate airtram (25 passenger cabins) descend 153m, then swings across the canyon. At the lower level are shops, a restaurant and gardens to enjoy. The ever present towering mountains make this area a photographer’s dream.

One of North America’s longest, the curving 610m China Bar Tunnel is 2.5 kms from Hells Gate.

The gold rush town of Boston Bar sits along the Fraser River. Forty-two kilometers from Yale with a population of approximately 400, this very busy community is a logging and trade centre. The Canadian National Railway passes through town while the Cdn Pacific Railway parallels on the other side of the Fraser River.

The highway is excellent and well maintained. Numerous pull-outs and rest areas in this section of the canyon and the scenery is magnificent. As we climb out of Boston Bar, Jackass Mountain looms 25.5 kms ahead, named for a mule who fell into the canyon, fully loaded, in the 1860’s.

We pass the Siska community art gallery and 42 kms north of Boston Bar is the community of Lytton (pop. 340).

This is the meeting place of the mighty Fraser and Thompson Rivers. The headwaters of the Fraser River flow from the Rocky Mountains and the Thompson River flows from Wells Gray Park to Kamloops then southwest to meet at Lytton.

The village of Lytton overlooks the joining of these two large rivers; from this point we will be following the Thompson River through the canyon. The beautiful Stein Valley attracts hikers and tourists to this area, also known as a Rafting Capital. These rubber rafts range from 14’ to 28' and hold from 6 to 18 people; a guide is on every boat. We watched them from the highway, floating quietly down the river and riding the rapids. Usually bright orange in color, they are a sharp contrast to the gray rock of the mountains and the green flowing river.

The trees and foilage are changing: more pine trees and the mountains are less green and more rocky. The soft mountains of the coast have given way to the harsh granite heights of the interior mountains. It is still four lanes and little traffic.

The Rocky Mountain Express train just passed us, on the other side of the river. The very colorful train is said to be “The Most Spectacular Train Trip in the World”. One, two and three day trips can be made through the mountains to Calgary. Called the Great Rail Escape, the train runs from May to October.

The mountains have a purple hue, the trees are thin and sparse. A warm breeze is blowing and many picnic and camping sites dot this area. A rafting stop, Goldpan Provincial Park is on the edge of the swift flowing river. On the other shore, train tunnels cut through the mountains.

Many fruit stands line the highway; it’s dry and warm, the wind is lightly blowing the sagebrush along the parched ground. These stands not only sell fruit but souveniers, candy, crafts and drinks; they are also a good source for directions and local information.

Thirty-seven kilometers northeast of Lytton is the terminus to Highway 6 (to the Okanagan Valley) and Spences Bridge (pop. 165). We cross the bridge over the fast flowing Thompson River and climb past this small picturesque community; we look down and notice many rafters getting ready to leave on another unforgettable journey. This Gold Rush town of 1850, rich in history and heritage, was the crossroads for miners travelling north.

The climate and terrain are changing; blue sky and sun greet us. Sparse pine trees, dry sagebrush and little farmland. The mountains are tapering off and we notice brown rolling hills. Some are irrigated and green but the landscape is mostly desert.

The town of Ashcroft (pop. 2,000) and three minutes off the main highway, is the “Arizona of Canada”. Tumbleweed, cactus and sage create cattle country. Ranches entice visitors to get a taste of the “Old West”.

Rich in history, Ashcroft Manor sits at the turnoff, a roadhouse and log church, with hand-hewn pews still standing.

We see the first of ginseng, a perennial herb, which is grown under long, low black tarps. This climate is perfect for the production of the popular root and many sites can be seen in this part of the province.

Welcome to Cache Creek (pop. 1,007), 193 kms north of Hope and nestled in the hills of terminus of Highway 97 North or Highway 1 East. Stopping for gas we notice the many campers, boats, trailers and recreational vehicles visiting this busy town. Many vintage vehicles are seen and a drag strip 6 kms south keeps the automotive transportation theme alive.

Driving north on Highway 87 the road narrows, we pass historic Hat Creek Ranch, farmland and campgrounds.

The Loon Lake turnoff is 32 kms north of Cache Creek. Taking the turnoff east, a sign listing the resorts on the lake attract us, only 23 kms. The paved, all season narrow road passes rolling farmlands and the Loon Lake Fish Hatchery.

The drive is windy and high hills surround us; the terrain is very green and huge pine trees lean on the side of the road. Suddenly around the last bend and over a hill, is the lake. This is the southwest end of the lake and the water shimmers in the noon day sun.

We slow and pull into the first resort, Evergreen Fishing Resort and stop to register.

“How’s the fishing?” Al asks Ken.

“Great, two were caught this morning, 13 inches long.”

“What bait did he use?”

“Just worms, I think,” Ken says.

They both stand looking at the lake, the water is calm and the fish are jumping. Small splashes can be heard in the peace and quiet. A boat is coming into dock and he cuts the motor.

Al asks, “How many?”

“None,” is the answer.

“Must be the time of day, what are you using?” Al asks, eager to know.

“Worms,” the fisherman says, holding up a container.

“Maybe next time,” Al says, wanting to try his luck.

Ken points to our lakeside campsite and we park the motorhome. The RV site is $16.00 per night (2) and $2.00 a day for moorage of the 12 ft. boat.

We connect the water, sewer and electricity, pull out the awning and unhook the boat. Al launches the boat, sets up his motor, fills his gas can, and quickly connects his fish finder.

Anxious to get started, he picks his lure with care and attaches it. Ready to go, he pulls the cord on his 8.8 hp outboard motor and slowly pulls away from the dock, skimming over the calm water.

One of the top ten naturally stocked lakes in North America (11-14 inch rainbow trout), these fish can be caught with flies, spinning and trolling gear.

Loon Lake is 9 miles long and half a mile wide; the shoreline can be seen at all times. The long, narrow lake is usually calm, but a gusty wind rises in the afternoon, staying for an hour or two. High cliffs on the farside enclose and protect this lake; it is also home to an eagle’s nest. Rustic log cabins, complete with double beds, bathroom, kitchen facilities and wood or electric stove, line the shoreline. Every unit has a porch overlooking the lake and a short walk takes you down to your own dock. A store for basic food supplies, laundromat, play area and boat rentals for your convenience.

The weather has turned hot but the nights are cool and calm, perfect for a campfire using free firewood.

We packed a picnic lunch and rented a carpeted pontoon boat. It was a luxury, with padded seats, canopy, swivel fishing seats and table ($90.00 a day, 6 hrs.). We steered the boat to the far end of the lake and fished. It was a long, slow day on the water.

Needing some exercise, we walked half a mile up the road, alongside the lake and stopped in at the local restaurant. A loghouse with an eating area on the porch, we sat outside and watched the hummingbirds hover near the many feeders. Walking back to the campground the hot summer day was quiet. The only sounds were the buzzing bees.

The road to Loon Lake is open all year round. Snowmobiling, crosscountry skiing and ice fishing are just some of the reasons for a winter visit. The resorts and provincial campground along this lake are easily accessible and offer a variety of activities.

It was time to leave, and driving home we savoured the scenery. It was a little sad, but secretly we know of a place, approximately 5 hours away, waiting for our next visit and to catch the one that got away.